East To Trwyn Du

Although the sun was out, it was a chilly start to the day. I walked back along the single lane coast road and then headed up into some fields at the end of the bay. The grass in the fields was saturated with dew and I was glad I’d remembered to put on my waterproof socks. The path climbed gradually and offered superb views back westwards along Red Wharf Bay. On the far side of the bay I could see the houses at Benllech and Moelfre. I’d been climbing in the shade of the hill and I was met by the sun when I reached the top. I turned my back on Red Wharf Bay and followed the coastal path along the high clifftops. Although I was walking through fields, the area supported scattered gorse and other vegetation and had quite a remote feel about it. Further eastwards I could see Puffin Island, just off the headland at Trwyn Du. That was my current target, but I had to leave the dramatic coastal views and turn inland to get there. It was a shame I had to leave the coast. Especially when I reached a section so boggy I almost felt like swinging through the trees like Tarzan to bypass it. I walked along quaint country lanes and passed some rather posh houses. At one point I came across a huge stone wall that seemed to extend across the landscape to the horizon. I’d later learn that this was a deer wall built by the local gentry. It does make you wonder about the expense and effort involved for such an enterprise.    

The lighthouse at Trwyn Du and Puffin Island came into view and it wasn’t long before I reached the small collection of houses at the headland. The lighthouse was built maybe 100 metres or so out at sea. It was so close, I did wonder why they hadn’t just built it on the mainland and made access easier. Maybe you could walk out to it when the tide was out. Puffin Island looked maybe a kilometre away. Later on in Beaumaris I’d see adverts for a company doing boat trips to the island. Well, this was my final turning point on the Anglesey Coastal Path. All I had to do now was follow the coast south westwards to the Britannia Bridge to complete my venture.

Penmon

Even though the sun was out, the day was very hazy. I should have had a super view across the Conwy Bay to the Snowdonia mountains, but all I could see was whiteness and the occasional outline of a mountain ridge. The road up to Trwyn Du is a toll road and if you are driving a car there, you have to pay a gatekeeper the princely sum of £3 for the privilege. He retreated to his shed as I approached, probably taking the hump because they didn't charge for pedestrians. There was a stunning building there with a domed stone roof. A plaque on the wall said that it had been a dovcot. I wasn’t familiar with the word, but the plaque told me it was a purpose built nesting place for our feathered friends. It seemed such a large and ornate place for a birdhouse. There was also a lovely stone priory just across the road and it was possible to walk into a couple of the old roofless rooms. Note that if you park there to walk around the dovcot and the priory, you still have to pay the gatekeeper £3. 

The coastal path followed the road towards Beaumaris. Eventually a fingerpost directed me on to a stony beach. The Anglesey Coastal Path fingerposts actually disappeared from this point. I wasn’t really sure whether the official path stuck to the beach or used the pavement along the road. Given that the tide was out, the beach route wasn’t a problem. Maybe if it had been in, I would have had to plod the pavement. The beach was very stony and quite hard walking. I searched for sandy stretches to ease my progress, but it wasn’t always possible to find them. I chatted with a woman walking a dog and asked whether the coastal path went along the beach or the road. She said that it could be either and that since the tide was out it was safe enough to walk right up to Beaumaris on the beach. And that is what I did, only heading off the beach when I reached a derelict building on the outskirts of Beaumaris. I had my lunch sitting on a bench situated on a little hill, with a superb view across the water to Snowdonia. The high mountains were still cloaked in haze, but a vague outline of their ridges was gradually materialising. After lunch I headed into Beaumaris. 

Beaumaris To Llanddona

Beaumaris was quite a twee town. It has its own castle at its northern end and quite a nice seafront with a small pier.  There were plenty of tourists pottering about, eating ice cream, walking their dogs, or mooching about the shops. I made my way through its centre and out the other side where I picked up a single track road that headed north westwards towards Llanddona. 

I was away from the Anglesey Coastal Path now and so had to get the map out to find my way. My cross country route followed single lane roads, farm tracks and a few field hops. It even went across a rather posh looking club swinging area at one stage, much to the chagrin of its gaudy clothed members. It was a pleasant enough route, but didn’t have quite the drama of the coastal path. I eventually ended up at the village of Llanddona and started walking down the road that I’d driven down this morning. It was nice to be able to study Red Wharf Bay without having to concentrate on driving. It really is a stunning bay. The tide was out now, exposing that huge sandy area over towards Benllech. I had intended to leave the road halfway down the hill and pick up a footpath back to the carpark. I got about 50 yards down the path, but was getting hooked up on gorse and brambles and so I retreated back down to the road again. It was all downhill and it didn’t take me long to get down to the bay and back to the carpark again.   

It had been a wonderful penultimate day on the Anglesey Coastal Path. It was full of dramatic views. Highlights were those of the lighthouse at Trwyn Du and the odd combo of the dovcot and priory at Penmon. Tomorrow I’ll walk between the Britannia Bridge and Beaumaris. This will conclude my Anglesey Coastal Path Venture. I will feel satisfied at completing the circuit, but a little sad at leaving this superb area of the UK.