England - Lake District - Bleaberry Derwent Delight

Walk Summary

An interesting walk with a mix of fell, woodland and valley paths. Dramatic views over Derwent Water from Walla Crag and Surprise View. Visits the remote, but busy Watendlath.

Date: 30/05/2022

Length: 9.94 miles

Height Gain: 689 m

Terrain: Trackless moor, boggy paths, grass paths,  stony paths, stone steps, slabs, woodland trails, lightly used roads

Navigation: Paths on the high fells appear obvious in good weather but may be featureless in bad weather. Map/compass and gps required. Signage on the paths down in the valley are good.

Start: Great Wood Car Park

Route: Great Wood Car Park, Cat Gill, Walla Crag, Bleaberry Fell, High Seat, High Tove, Armboth Fell, High Tove, Watendlath, Ashness Bridge

Map: OL4 The English Lakes North Western Area

Weather: Grey. Showers. Heavy rain in afternoon.

Walkers: Nun, Calse and Mo.

Gallery

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Derwent Water From Cat Gill

Captain's Log

Walla Crag

The weather didn't look that promising. It looked even less promising when it started to rain as we climbed up Cat Gill. It wasn't long before we had our anoraks on. Ten minutes later we had our anoraks off. It was going to be one of those Lakeland days of intermittent rain and frequent dress change. As we broke through the trees at the top of Cat Gill we got a glimpse of Derwent Water. We could see another band of rain approaching us from the fells beyond.

It is a steep climb up Cat Gill. Fortunately, it is fairly short, and from its top there is then a gradual ascent to Walla Crag. It wasn't long before we stood on Walla's rocky buttress admiring a panoramic view of Derwent Water and Keswick, with Skiddaw as a backdrop. Truly spectacular; even on a grey, showery day like today.

Keswick From Walla Crag

Bleaberry Fell

Our next target for the day was Bleaberry Fell. This appears as a large, conical hump across a flattish, heathery moor. There is a good  track that leads to it across the moor and we headed off in its direction. In one of the pools that flowed over the track, we saw dozens of tadpoles. A perilous existence when an occasional walker passes by and doesn't notice them. Once over the moor, the path climbed steeply to the summit. On the top we found a stone shelter and a summit cairn. At least we thought it was a summit cairn, since as with many Wainwrights, other areas around the summit cairn seemed to be slightly higher.

Tadpoles Halfway Up Bleaberry Fell

I take a photo of Mo and Calse on every Wainwright summit. Last night Mo had been browsing through these and complained that my photos made his man boobs look too big. I told him that the camera never lies and he shouldn't blame the photographer. He said that he was going to get back to the gym to firm up his pecs when he got back home. I told him that he'd need more than 5 minutes in a gym to tame those puppies. As I was preparing to take their photo on Bleaberry's summit, I told him it might help if he pulled his shoulders back, and lifted and separated, as suggested in the Playtex bra advert. He tried it, but the photo still looked like he'd got a couple of space hoppers shoved under his shirt.

Bleaberry Fell Summit Shelter

Derwent Water From Bleaberry Fell

High Seat's Trig

High Seat

Wainwright is rather dismissive of the area between Bleaberry Fell and High Seat. He uses terms such as 'extreme dreariness' and 'swampiness'. Decades later, it is still rather moist, but for most of the traverse there is a reasonably dry path. One or two areas still require detours on to drier ground, but it isn't anything serious. I'd recently been to the summit of High Seat on my Stairway To Raven walk, but I'd completed that walk on my own and so this ascent was a tick for Calse and Mo's Wainwright list.

From here, I'd intended taking the path across Ashness Fell, and then back to the car park at Great Wood, but we'd made good progress and the day was still young. 'More Wainwrights!', Calse and Mo pleaded. I decided we'd continue southwards to High Tove and then do an out-and-back to Armboth Fell. I'd done both of those Wainwrights too as part of Stairway To Raven, but I figured Calse and Mo would still have to do them at sometime. Better to do them now while we had already gained the height.

High Tove And Armboth Fell

I didn't find High Tove and Armboth Fell too inspiring the last time I summitted them and things didn't improve on this second excursion. On reflection, I think Wainwright was right; it is an area of extreme dreariness and swampiness. I have to confess I was on autopilot as we ticked these two Wainwrights. It had started to rain again and I was cocooned in the hood of my anorak, lost in my own thoughts. By the time we had returned to High Tove from the out-and-back to Armboth Fell, I wondered where the last hour had gone.

We continued straight through High Tove and down the other side of its flank to Watendlath.

Watendlath Tarn

Watendlath

Watendlath

Watendlath looked like a tranquil oasis as we descended towards it from High Tove. Looks can be deceptive though and the closer we got, the busier it seemed. The car park was full, the tea room was doing a roaring trade, and the surrounding area was a bustle of walkers, anglers and potterers. We went straight through and took the path that follows the Watendlath Beck down the valley. Within a few hundred yards of the tarn, we were back on our own again.

Derwent Water From Surprise View

Watendlath Beck

Watendlath Beck To Great Wood

The path alongside Wantendlath Beck is a delight. It was picturesque even on a damp squib of a day like today. It eventually descended into woodland where the birds were very vocal, but rather evasive. At Surprise View we looked down from its lofty crag on to a rainy Derwent Water. The cliff was so vertical, we felt we could have dived into the outdoor swimming pool of an hotel below us. We could see somebody in the pool; I suppose rain doesn't matter that much when swimming outdoors.

I had wanted to get the mandatory photo of Ashness Bridge but the rain was far too heavy to get my camera out of the rucksack. We pressed on, walking along a track that contoured along the hillside back to Great Wood. In good weather this is a cracking path. It's through woodland and undergrowth but it is open and high enough to provide superb views on to Derwent Water and the fells beyond. The path also goes below the very impressive Falcon Crag. 

As we reached the Great Wood car park, the sun came out. Our improvised walk had turned out to be an interesting mix of fell, woodland and valley walking. The views from Walla Crag and Surprise View were stunning.