Slow Start

Dinas Rock carpark actually lives up to its name. There is a huge mound of limestone at the east end of the carpark. This was the first of the many natural wonders that I'd see on today's walk. An information board in the carpark mapped the local trails. Initially, I was taking the yellow route to the Sgwd Yr Eira waterfall. I found the trails throughout the area to be well signed. This area is called 'Waterfall Country' for reasons that will become apparent. The path from the carpark took me up on to a ridge and then I followed the top of the valley northwards. It was a grey day with a hint of drizzle in the air. After the 'cor blimey' rating for Dinas Rock, I was a little disappointed in the first hour of the walk. I seemed to go high up and away from the river tinkling away in the bottom of the valley. I began to wonder whether the reviews I'd read about the 'Waterfall Country' had been a little overrated. 

Sgwd Yr Eira

The yellow route eventually started dropping down into the valley and I began to hear the roar of falling water. White water started emerging through the foliage and then I got my first glimpse of Sgwd Yr Eira. Wow!  A large amount of water gushed over a limestone ledge and fell about 10 metres. I looked at the other side of the river and could see the path that I wanted to continue on my route. I was hoping there would be a footbridge here, but none was in sight. Then it clicked that my path went behind the waterfall. Well, I wasn't expecting that! I made my way up to the waterfall to check the path out. It looked wet and slippery but certainly possible. I packed my camera away in my rucksack so that it wouldn't get wet and then started making my way across. It was an odd feeling seeing all that water gushing down within touching distance. It made a hell of a noise too. The path was actually quite easy, and I was soon on the other side. I made my way along the bouldery bank to a photographer who had set up his camera on a tripod to take a picture of the waterfall. I chatted with him. He was a local and he gave me a review of what I should expect on my walk. He said that the other waterfalls were just as impressive, if not more so. I found that hard to believe, but I left him with my expectations levels higher for the day. 

Sgwd Yr Pannwr, Sgwd Isaf Clun-Gwyn And Sgwd Clun-Gwyn

I climbed up out of the valley. As I reached the top, a Red Kite flew over me. I'd seen a multitude of songbirds on the walk so far, and now I see this glorious raptor. An information board said that there are Otters in the area, but I didn't see any. I did see a Dipper, later in the day though. A group of about 20 women stood around on the track. As I approached, I noticed that none of them attempted eye contact. I gave them a generic, 'Good morning', as I walked by, but I didn't get a response. I had to drop back down into the valley again to see the next waterfall. Sgwd Yr Pannwr didn't have the drop of Sgwd Yr Elra but it seemed wider, and was still magnificent. I made my way upstream to a wonderful cascade at Sgwd Isaf Clun-Gwyn. A warning sign that said that the path was dangerous further upstream. My earlier chat with the photographer had warned me of this, and he'd told me that it was best to return back to the top of the valley on the same path. There was still a reasonable view of cascading waterfalls above me, and so the trip hadn't been wasted. I plodded my way back to the top of the valley. The day had turned out mild and I'd built up a sweat as I reached the top. The trail followed the top of the valley to the next waterfall, Sgwd Clun-Gwyn. This was another limestone shelf over which white water tumbled. A huge tree had also fallen over its limestone edge and then got stuck. I used a footbridge to cross the river further upstream, and then followed the valley down on the other side. I thought the view from this side of the valley was actually better. 

Pont Melin-Faeh

There were a lot more people around this area and the reason became apparent when I came across the parked cars near the road at Clyn-Gwyn. If you don't want the long walk in from Dinas Rock then a start from here gives quicker and easier access to the waterfalls. I walked south along the road for 15 minutes and then right turned on to a single track road. Some road signs said that the road was closed due to roadworks. For a second or two I thought that the Merthyr roadworks had extended this far. I'd seen two cars go down it though as I approached the junction, and so I thought I'd probably be okay walking down it. It was a dodgy road and I could see why it needed road repairs. One section appeared to be in imminent danger of falling into a brook. The cars I'd seen earlier were parked at the carpark at Pont Melin-Faeh. It is the trailhead for the path that would lead me down the valley southwards. An information board promised that I would come across even more waterfalls. 

Sgwd Ddwli And Sgwd Gwladus

They weren't wrong either. There were waterfalls and cascades aplenty. It was a delightful trail with some amazing views. Sgwd Ddwli was another large limestone bed with a white water blanket hanging off it. There were some smaller but equally beautiful waterfalls, all the way down the valley. At a junction where another river merged with the one I'd been following, a sign indicated a viewing point further upstream of the other valley. I followed the trail and the dramaic Sgwd Gwladus came into view. It reminded me a bit of Hardraw Falls in the Dales. I kicked myself since I'd taken the trail on the wrong side of the river for the best view. I'd have been much better taking the trail on the other side, since this enabled people to go right up to the waterfall. In fact I could see that some people had walked behind it. I could have gone back down to the footbridge and comeback up the other side for a closer look, but time was pressing and I'd got a couple of hours drive to complete after the walk. I'd have to return in the future and take a closer look at Sgwd Gwladus. 

Return

I continued southwards alongside the river. The valley turned into a ravine as I approached Pontneddfachan. I'd seen so many natural wonders in the last few hours that the sight of houses and cars seemed other worldly. A light rain was falling and I plodded my way back along wet pavements to Dinas Rock. 

What a day! When I'd read reports of the Waterfall Country, I'm ashamed to admit that I thought the author's had overegged them a bit. That first hour of walking seemed to confirm my suspicions. I was definitely wrong. The area is truly spectacular and should be on everybody's walking bucket list.