England - Lake District - Bowfell Hell

Walk Summary

Ascent to Bowfell via Hell's Gill and picturesque waterfalls. High traverse of rocky Esk Pike with fine views of the Scafell massif. Descend via Rossett Pike with its wonderful view of the Langdale Valley.

Date: 21/03/2022

Length: 8.98 miles

Height Gain: 896 m

Terrain: Boggy paths, grass paths, stony paths, lightly used road, stone steps

Navigation: Can be tricky in places (see map).

Start: Old Dungeon Ghyll Car Park, Langdale

Route: Old Dungeon Ghyll Car Park, Stool End, Hell's Gill, Three Tarns, Bowfell, Esk Pike, Esk Hause, Rossett Pike, Rossett Gill, Mickleden Valley.

Map: OL6 The English Lakes South Western Area

Weather: Hazy sun, cold wind, grey in afternoon.

Walkers: Nun, Mo and Calse

Gallery

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Hell's Gill Path

Captain's Log

Dungeon Ghyll 

Mo had fed coins into the Dungeon Ghyll car park machine but it kept spitting them out. You could pay by an App but none of us could get a mobile signal. It said you could pay up to 24 hours later using the App and so hoped that worked.

The fields over to Stool End farm were free of sheep. Curious given that it was the lambing season. I decided to ascend up to Three Tarns by the Hell Gill path. I find this path the best for ascent and The Band better for a descent.  Apart from the terrifying chasm of Hell Gill, there are some pretty waterfalls to admire and great views up to the Crinkles.

Magic Beanie

I'd meant to bring a headband but put my running beanie into my rucksack instead. I've had the beanie for years and it's been through so many washes that it's shrunk. This has the effect of pulling my skin and jowls to the top of my head when I wear it. I've looked in the mirror, and the lack of drooping flesh makes me look 10 years younger. I put my beanie on and pointed this feature out to Calse and Mo. They both agreed that I looked nearer 15 years younger, than 10. I was rather pleased with this outcome and I offered the beanie to them to see if it had the same effect. They both declined.

Hell's Gill Path Waterfall

Three Tarns

Three Tarns, A Slab And Bowfell

The Three Tarns were topped with a thin layer of ice. Calse prodded it with her trekking pole and the ice easily broke. Mo started walking towards Scafell Pike and disappeared over the horizon. I wondered if that would be the last we would ever see of him. A few minutes later he reappeared. Apparently he'd had an irresistible desire to photograph the Moasdale Valley.

We plodded up the path that breaches Bowfell buttresses. I took a wander down to the Great Slab, an amazing rock formation that adorns Bowfell's shoulders.  Bowfell's summit is a jumble of rocks and we picked a route to the top. It is a popular spot, so we took our photos and picked a route down.

Esk Pike

The south path up to Esk Pike is straightforward with false tops giving false hopes. The summit cairn doesn't look to be on the highest point, but the highest point isn't easily reachable and so we took summit photos at the cairned 'summit'. The north side of Esk Pike is a craggy affair and makes for an interesting descent. We headed down to Esk Hause where there is a stone shelter in the shape of a cross. After having lunch there I looked over in the direction of Glaramara and saw a large bird perched on a rock. I couldn't tell what it was, and alerted Calse and Mo of this wildlife spot. Mo pointed out that it was actually somebody sat down behind a rock and my 'bird' was actually their head.

Esk Hause

Rossett Pike

Knee Trembler

Rossett Pike has two cairns near the summit. One that looks to be at the highest point and another one that is just before the land falls away into the Mickleden Valley. The latter provides a tremendous view that includes Pike O'Stickle, Pike O'Blisco and Bowfell. In my view, it must rate as one of the best views in the Lake District. Such a view comes with a cost though and you pay dearly by having to make the descent down Rossett Gill. A lot of this path has been built with stone steps that jar your bones and muscles.  It is a real knee trembler.

Mickleden

It was a relief to get to the bottom of Rossett Gill and start the march back to Dungeon Ghyll. The route follows a stony track that is easier on the knees than the steps of Rossett Gill, but is in fact far more tedious. The landscape seems to pass by very slowly walking along this track. It seems to take an age to get back to The Dungeon Ghyll hotel.

Despite the pain of Rossett Gill and the tedium of the Mickleden track, Hell's Gill, Bowfell and Esk Pike more than make up for it. 

Hell's Gill