River Glenderamackin

It was a grand view as we started westwards from Mungrisdale. The valley head splits into two by a large hill known as The Tongue. Looking at its contours on the map, you can see how it got its name. The area in front of it used to be incredibly boggy, but massive slabs have been slotted over the marsh now and it is easy to traverse. We followed the valley on a path that runs along the River Glenderamackin. This walk must have the most gradual ascent of any Wainwright, since the track just follows the river upwards around to the back of Bannderdale Crags and then has a brief and easy climb to the top. The early morning sun had disappeared and the sky had greyed over. There was also a very chilly wind. As the river and track 'U' turned around White Horse Bent, the spectacular crags of Sharp Edge come into view. It's serrated edge seemed impossible to traverse from this angle. We couldn't see any walkers on it today. Maybe the strong wind had put people off. Our ascent continued up to the top of the valley allowing views of Sharp Edge from both sides.

Bannerdale And Bowscale

At the head of the valley the River Glenderamackin disappears into marshy grass. Rather than going to the summit of Bannerdale Crags, we headed off on a track that joined the edge further to the north. The wind was so strong now that I had trouble keeping the camera steady as I took a photo along the crags. The gusts buffeted us as we made our way across boggy ground to the ascent to Bowscale Fell. There is a stone shelter on its summit and I could see someone stood inside it. I hoped they'd vacate it by the time we got up there. Indeed, by the time we'd plodded to the summit, the shelter was free. The stone windbreak wasn't that high though and had more holes than a colander. Despite the meagre protection we hunkered down for a rest. After hardly seeing anyone all day, I could see a few people making there way along the east ridge towards us. It was time to move and so we kitted up and started heading over to Bowscale Tarn.

Bowscale Tarn

The wind was really having a go now and it was sometimes hard to stand up as we descended down the edge above Bowscale Tarn. I was glad that it was blowing us away from edge. We dropped down almost level with the water and then contoured our way across to the tarn.  By the time we reached it the wind had thankfully reduced to a breeze. The tarn is in an impressive setting with three-quarters of it surrounded by high crags. Folklore suggests that two immortal fish are resident in the tarn and one of them can speak.  It must be true because William Wordsworth mentions them in his 'Song, At The Feast Of Brougham Castle', and William wasn't one for embellishing stories:

And both the undying Fish that swim

Through Bowscale-Tarn did wait on him,

The pair were Servants of his eye

In their immortality,

They moved about in open sight,

To and fro, for his delight. 

Return To Mungrisdale

The path down from the tarn to the small collection of houses at Bowscale was a delight. It had a gradual descent and had wonderful views across the valley to Carrock Fell. This walk does have some road walking and there was a brief stretch from Bowscale to Mungrisdale. Thankfully the road wasn't that busy. Walking along the road did give us a chance to see the rocky outcrops of Raven Crags. In Mungrisdale, we took a footpath shortcut across a field that brought us out at the limekiln that I'd unfortunately failed to see at the start of the walk. I noted that the Kapitan and Cabin Boy were both quiet; they'd obviously forgotten the incident from this morning.

We wanted an easy walk today and the gradual ascents fitted the bill. It didn't skimp on views though and those of Sharp Edge, Bannerdale Crags and Bowscale Tarn were impeccable.