Walk Summary
A wonderful walk on the remote Howden moor. Superb views down into the Upper Derwent and the impressive Abbey Brook valleys. Marvel at the wonderful rock formations at Back Tor.
Click on the above map for an interactive map of the route.
The Trails Map (dropdown, top right) is the best free map for displaying footpaths and topography. Expand to full screen (cross arrows, top right) to see route detail. Ordnance Survey maps can be used with a small subscription to Plotaroute.
Clicking on the above map gives access to various downloads (e.g. GPX and PDF).
Date: 20/08/2022
Length: 10.946 miles
Height Gain: 532 m
Terrain: Very boggy paths, trackless moor, stone paths, woodland trails, lightly used roads
Navagation: Difficult. High featureless, trackless moor (between High Stones and the Dukes Road). Requires map, compass and gps.
Start: Offroad Parking Near Fairholmes
Route: Fairholmes, Abbey Brook, Howden Edge, High Stones, Greenfield Howden, Cartledge Flat, Dukes Road, Back Tor, Lost Lad, Hancock Wood
Map: OL1 Dark Peak Area
Weather: Grey skies, shower, with occasional sun
Walkers: Nun, Calse and Mo
Gallery
The Google Gallery may have more photos (it will be displayed in a new Tab)
Derwent Dam
Captain's Log
Empty Reservoirs
We stood near the head of Ladybower Reservoir and looked down its length. The water was just visible in the far distance, down the valley. I'd never seen the reservoir so low before. Some geese were making the most of a bad situation, paddling in the trickle of water that led into the reservoir. The large water pipe that traverses the reservoir usually gives a good photo opportunity with its reflection in the water, but not today. In Fairholmes' carpark there were Chaffinches in abundance. They were only outnumbered by the ducks in a dedicated, bark covered roosting area.
I climbed the steep steps at the side of the Derwent Dam with an illogical expectation that the water company would have retained all the water in the Upper Derwent Reservoir. They hadn't of course, and it was as low down as the Ladybower reservoir. Water normally gushes into the reservoir from the culvert on the other side of the dam, but today it was just barely visible.
Ladybower Reservoir (Or What Is Left Of It)
Navigation Aspiration
Before we reached the Howden Dam we headed off uphill on the north side of Abbey Brook. Grey clouds had been accumulating and by the time we had escaped the lower woodland, they started unleashing rain. We donned out waterproofs and continued plodding on upwards.
Mo had declared that he was learning to navigate. Calse said that if I dropped dead, then Mo would have to take my car keys from my corpse and then they'd have to find their own way back to the car. I apologised for any inconvenience I might cause them, and I asked Mo how his navigation homework was coming along. 'Oh, I've not started yet', he replied. I offered to show him how to navigate, but rather than take lessons from a proven expert he said that he would prefer to acquire the knowledge from unproven influencers on YouTube videos. I've an idea that navigation is above his capabilities, but I dislike discouraging aspiration. I said I'd let him navigate on the next walk. 'Oh no, it'll be towards the end of September before I'm ready', he quickly informed me. 'I'll look forward to that', I lied. If and when he does attempt some guiding, I'll have to remember to pack some extra provisions and a bivvy bag for myself, and a couple of extra large bin bags for this pair, since goodness knows where we might end up.
Looking Towards The Upper Derwent Valley
High Stones
Abbey Brook
High Stones
We had to do a bit of an out-and-back to the summit of High Stones. We didn't linger there since there was a strong wind making vertical standing difficult. At Wet Stones we followed a sketchy path that contours the hillside just below the heather line. I had intended following this path along the edge of Abbey Brook. This path offers great views down into the top end of the Abbey Brook valley. The edge was catching the wind today though and I made an executive decision to take a more direct route across the moors towards the path known as the Dukes Road. Away from the edge, we did lose the wind, but it was sometimes tough walking across trackless heather.
At Cartledge Brook I put one foot onto what I thought was a solid clump of grass. My foot immediately sank and I had that horrible feeling of cold water running over my ankles and into my boot. I quickly put my other leg down hard onto another clump of grass in order to lever my sinking leg out, but this too started to sink. There then followed an ungainly struggle to wade through swamp to find some purchase to lift myself out of the predicament. Eventually I found more stable ground and I managed to drag myself out of the mire. A ghastly hydrogen sulphide smell then pervaded the area. I looked at my trousers and sighed. I'd have to use double the amount of washing machine powder on my duds tonight. I was disappointed to find Mo and Calse giggling nearby. They had found an ideal spot to cross the brook. I was glad that I hadn't insisted in imparting my expert navigational knowledge to Mo, in our earlier discussions. It was an ungenerous thought, but my mood was raw.
Back Tor And Lost Lad
It is hard to keep a good man down though and my mood had lightened somewhat by the time we reached the Dukes Road. Mo and Calse found that by walking 10 metres upwind of me they could almost escape the stench of the hydrogen sulphide emanating from my trousers. Back Tor was busy with people and so we took our lunch on some rocks a little off to the east. It was threatening to rain again, but it managed to hold off. It isn't easy to get to the trig of Back Tor and so our Ethel photo was taken on a nearby boulder
At Lost Lad we all looked at the toposcope on the stone plinth. Mo randomly called out some names from the metal plaque and I pointed them out in the distance. 'That's not Grinah Stones', he said when I pointed out the very obvious stone cliff on the skyline. 'Yes it is', I replied. 'No it isn't. This plaque says it should be that hill over there'. He was pointing towards Bleaklow Head. I was about to tell him, 'If that is Grinah Stones, then I've been climbing the wrong bloody hill for 50 years', but I decided that this might discourage his aspirations for learning navigation at this sensitive early stage. I looked down at the toposcope and placed my walking stick in the direction of the arrow pointing to Grinah Stones. I then crouched down and looked along the walking stick. It certainly wasn't pointing to Grinah Stones. I told him that this was a good navigational lesson to put under his belt; that is, on rare occasions a map (or toposcope) may not honestly represent reality and that he should always keep that in the back of his mind. Looking at his blank face, I could see that the concept went to the back of his mind and then slid straight out of his ears, like a youngster on an helter skelter slide.
Back Tor From Lost Lad
Tin City Rail Bridge Piers
Return To Fairholmes
It is quite a plateau between Lost Lad and the Derwent valley. This makes the view all the more impressive when you finally reach the plateau's edge and look down into the valley. The water was so low in the Upper Derwent reservoir that it had exposed the old supports used for the railway bridge over an inlet of the reservoir. The railway was used during the construction of Howden dam.
Over to our left we heard a screech and saw a Buzzard fly into the trees on the hillside. The path is quite steep down from the plateau to the reservoir. The lower part is usually quite wet making a slip on to your backside a possibility. It was as dry as a bone today though. On reaching the reservoir we started walking along the track back towards Fairholmes. We heard a screech above us, and we saw our Buzzard emerge from the trees. fly across the reservoir and then chase another large bird away. It looked like a busy day for him defending his territory.
Fairholmes was a chaos of cars and motorbikes. It isn't really a place to escape civilisation on sunny, weekend summer days. We had enjoyed our walk. Mo had even learned a very important first lesson in navigation. I did think about testing him on it, but I could see in the way that his tongue was hanging out of the side of his mouth, that his concentration was fully occupied with unlacing his boots. Roll-on September when he guides his first walk, I thought.