Captain's Log

Elterwater

The weather forecast didn’t look very encouraging on the TV this morning. Around midday a huge blue blob drifted across the Irish Sea and completely obliterated the Lake District. It then made slow progress over to the east. I calculated there was a three or four hour window where we could do a walk before the blue invasion reached us. I devised a route that started out at Elterwater and headed off towards Little Langdale. We’d carry out a short out-and-back to the top of a Great How before returning to Elterwater via Skelwith Bridge, along the River Brathay. The OS map showed it to be a mix of field, fell and woodland walking with a bit of road walking thrown in. At under 7 miles I reckoned we'd be able to do the full circuit without getting our waterproofs wet. 

We parked at the National Trust Elterwater carpark. It was good job that we’d had an early start since it was nearly full even at 08:30 in the morning.  Crossing the road bridge over the Great Langdale Beck, we carried on southwards along the road. It was so grey and gloomy that it wouldn’t have surprised me if it had started raining immediately. It got even darker as we continued alongside Fletchers Wood. There were plenty of trees that had tumbled down. We reached a fingerpost that pointed into the wood and we followed it. 

Great How

It was a well made trail through the wood and we quickly made progress to the other side where the views started to open up. Across the valley I could see a small craggy peak. This was Great How, a tick for my Lake District Hills Explorer Venture. We had to make our way across to it first though and this turned out to be a field hopping experience. After reaching the collection of buildings known as Wilson Place, we headed directly towards Stang End with Great How behind it. At 211 metres, Great How doesn’t require too much effort to ascend. It was a grassy path that weaved its way through ferns to its summit. As we neared its top the wind gathered strength and slowed our progress. The summit area was an array of crags and initially it wasn’t clear which was the highest point. We visited quite a few of the tops, but there was definitely one higher than the rest. From all of them, there were magnificent views of the surrounding area. Great How may not be high, but it is a perfect platform for viewing the Coniston and Langdale fells. The wind was so strong now that it was difficult to stand upright to take photos. Mist hung over the fell tops and rain looked imminent. We headed back down the hill, into  more sheltered terrain.

Trees And Fells

Near to Hodge Close quarry a convoy of half a dozen Landrovers approached us along the stone track. We stood well away from the road as they rumbled by us. We were on a RUPP that links Tilberthwaite and Stang’s End and so they were legally allowed to be there. I’m not sure how much of an outdoor experience it was for their occupants though. I could smell burnt diesel for a minute or so after they passed us. At Hodge Close we headed eastwards on another stone track. To our south we could see Holme Fell, a hill that you’ll need to summit if you are doing the Wainwrights. It wasn’t on our itinerary today though and just after the house at High Oxen Fell we turned our back on it and headed north along a single track road. When this reached the A593 we headed off on a pleasant woodland trail through the Tongue Intake Plantation. The trail ran parallel to the A593, but we couldn’t hear it. It gradually descended until it reached the road bridge at High and Low Colwith. We met a group of ramblers here that must have numbered around 30 people altogether. They were strung out in smaller groups along the path and some were waiting for their walking buddies to catch up. We forced our way against the flow and climbed up to Park Farm. Some slabs of flapjack were available in a Tupperware box. They were big slabs and at a reasonable price of £2 each. I’d walked a 100 metres past the box before temptation got the better of me and I returned to the container and purchased a slab. Very nice it was too and I ate most of it before we got back to Elterwater. 

Return To Elterwater

There were plenty of other walkers on the path as we made our way towards Skelwith Bridge. It is odd how people seem less inclined to say ‘hello’ when it is more busy. The track descended and we followed the route along the River Brathay rather than head into Skelwith Bridge. It seemed a shame to miss out on a trip to the Chesters cafe, but I had my slab of flapjack to keep me going and the Kapitan and Cabin Boy weren’t interested in visiting it. A footbridge allowed us to cross the river and we joined the popular path that runs along Elter Water. There were many people walking along the path in all directions. This was pushchairs, babies and dogs territory. A few pooches were taking dips in the lake and river. About half a mile from Elterwater village, we felt the first drops of rain. Our pace increased accordingly. We didn’t want to get a soaking so close to the finish. I began to regret spending time going back for that flapjack. In the end we did get wet, but it wasn’t a soaking. The carpark was crammed full now, with cars queuing in the hope that somebody else would vacate a space. As soon as I pulled out of my spot, somebody drove in. 

It turned out to be a wonderful half day walk. It was easy walking over fields, fells and roads. The highlight was definitely the views from Great How. It provided a stunning vantage point from such a low hill. The trails near Elter Water are popular and may feel too busy for some. For most of the walk though, we had the trail to ourselves.