England - Lake District -  Storm Otto On Helvellyn

Walk Summary

The easiest way up Helvellyn (if there is an easy one) that doesn't skimp on tremendous views. The RAF may provide an impromptu air display along the Thirlmere valley. Easy woodland walking that passes pretty waterfalls and has some open views over the Thirlmere reservoir.

Date: 17/02/2023

Length: 7.03 miles

Height Gain: 818 m

Terrain: Rocky tracks, steep stone steps, forestry tracks

Navigation: Map, compass and gps required. The paths are well defined, but serious in bad weather.

Start: A591 Old Road Carpark

Route: A591 Old Road Carpark, Swirls, Browncove Crags, Helvellyn, Birk Side, Comb Gill, Forestry Track (To The Swirls)

Map: OL5 North Eastern Lake District

Weather: Grey, very windy, sun in afternoon

Walkers: Nun, Cabin Boy, Captain Mo

Gallery

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Looking Down St Johns In The Vale Towards Blencathra

Captain's Log

Storm Otto

The Danish Meteorological Office had named last night's storm as Otto. The remnants of it still seemed to be pretty active around Keswick. Skiddaw had disappeared behind a cloud and rain battered at the windows. I decided it would be best to wait and see if conditions improved. The name Otto made me shudder a bit. A few years back I was walking near Elterwater when a young German Shepherd became amorously enamoured with one of shins. The owner was ineffective at calling Otto off. Luckily I was wearing gaiters at the time and so there was no permanent damage done. I think Otto got more out of the brief encounter, than I did.

By 9 a.m. we could see Skiddaw and there was even a glimpse of sunshine. We set off towards Thirlmere. The walk today was a hike up Helvellyn and back down to Wythburn. I hoped that the wind would drop by the time we reached the summit.

Helvellyn

Rather than pay £7 for the privilege of parking in Swirls carpark, we parked at the free one (originally it was part of the old road), about a quarter of  a mile north on the A591. After walking to Swirls carpark, we started the long, slow trudge up the stone staircase to Browncove Crags. I was quite surprised at the strength of the wind, even at these low levels. The forecasters suggested that the wind would drop around about 11 a.m., so we had about another hour to go. The wind didn't stop the RAF doing their training flights though. Four jets flew low up the Thirlmere valley and then scooted off over Keswick. A few minutes later they appeared over Borrowdale and disappeared over Grasmere. About twenty minutes later, they repeated exactly the same exercise. Practice makes perfect, I guess.

On Browncove Crags we started being splattered by rain and so we put the wet weather gear on. It didn't last though, but we kept our coats on to keep warm. The wind was tremendously strong now, blowing us towards the steep edge of the crags. A light mist then blew in too and we didn't get a view, when we reached Helvellyn's trig point. A few patches of snow clung desperately to the cliff edge. I dropped down southwards to try and escape the brunt of the wind, but it seemed to be just as bad everywhere. We made our way across to the  stone 'cross' shelter and collapsed into a sheltered quadrant. As we ate our lunch I kept an eye on Striding Edge and wasn't surprised that I didn't see anybody crossing it. A young couple had staggered across from Nethermost Pike and after passing us, settled down into the remaining wind protected quadrant of the shelter. We packed up, I didn't fancy stepping out into the maelstrom again, but we were getting cold sat in the shelter and we'd be warmer walking.

Looking Down On Dunmail Raise From Brown Cove Crags

Descent To Wythburn

Wythburn

At least I thought I'd be warmer. My hands were freezing up and I stopped to put some mitts over my gloves. I'd probably have been walking in shorts and a tee shirts, in this sort of weather, during my younger days. The path down to Birk Side is easy walking and we lost height quite quickly. Despite the loss in elevation, the wind still didn't seem to lose any power. The views over Thirlmere to Ullscarf and Steel Fell are excellent. By the time we reached Comb Crags, views along Thirlmere reservoir opened up. This has to be my favourite descent route for Helvellyn. A stone staircase brought us near to Comb Gill and then we continued downwards towards the reservoir. Eventually we reached the forestry road that contours along the hillside back to Swirls carpark.

Return

The wind had finally stopped. The sun was out too. It was so warm now that I was brave enough to take my anorak and fleece off. The forestry road is reasonably flat and easy walking. There are some good waterfalls along the route and we found them well resourced from last night's rain. I have seen deer and red squirrels in this stretch of woods, but all the wildlife seemed absent today.  In 2015 Storm Desmond caused a number of landslides along this stretch of hillside, some of them blocking the A591. I could still see where these landslides had come down, but it was less obvious than previous years. The landscape is gradually recovering. 

There's quite a nice bench along the forestry road that is accompanied by a plaque stating the following:

'In memory of Christian and Niggy Townsend aged 29 and 21 who died 5 Dec 2010'

Research shows that they were cyclists riding along the A595 and were run down from behind by a coach. It appears that the coach driver was cleared of causing death by dangerous driving at his trial. He claimed that he was temporarily blinded by the sun. 

I felt a bit battered when we got back to the car. It was probably all that buffeting by Storm Otto. It had been quite an experience up there, but I'd enjoyed it. Those views down on to Thirlmere are amazing.

Thirlmere Views From The Forestry Road