Walk Summary
A pleasant combination of forest and fell walking. The forest walking is on forestry roads and well signed paths. Great views over the Coniston Fells and lake. Some trackless, remote fell walking. Find out about Panopticons.
Click on the above map for an interactive map of the route.
The Trails Map (dropdown, top right) is the best free map for displaying footpaths and topography. Expand to full screen (cross arrows, top right) to see route detail. Ordnance Survey maps can be used with a small subscription to Plotaroute.
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Date: 09/05/2023
Length: 10.52 miles
Height Gain: 572 m
Terrain: Forestry roads, stone tracks, muddy tracks, grass tracks, trackless fell
Navigation: Map, compass and gps required. The forestry roads and footpaths are true to the OS map. Bethecar Moor is generally trackless and potentially confusing in bad weater.
Start: Grizedale Visitor Centre
Route: Grizedale Visitor Centre, Carron Crag, Low Parkamoor, Top O'Selside, Arnsbarrow Hill, Bethacar Moor, Farra Grain Gill, Scale Green
Map: OL7 South Eastern Lake District
Weather: Initially grey and misty, sunny from mid morning.
Walkers: Nun, Cabin Boy, Kapitan Mo
Captain's Log
Grizedale Confusion
The weather forecast included some showers today and so we opted for a walk around Grizedale Forest and the nearby Bethecar fell in the hope that the trees would protect us from any rain. After a grey and misty start it actually turned out to be quite a nice day with sunny intervals and so you shouldn't always trust the forecasters. There was some confusion at the start when a notice said that the Moor Lane area was closed due to Tree Troubler activity. Unfortunately the wall side map didn't have Moor Lane listed. I had a look at the OS map and there was a Moor Lane further south near Satterthwaite, and so didn't look applicable. Just as we entered the first plantation there was another vague, generic sign saying there was a diversion in place to Carron Crag. In the end we gave up and just ignored the signs and walked the route that we'd already planned on the understanding that we could always backtrack on to an alternative route. Over the day we saw plenty of stacked logs but didn't see one Tree Troubler. None of the trails we chose were closed or had any obstructions.
There are a number of sculptures dotted around Grizedale Forest (54 in the 2021 Grizedale Forests Walking Trails guide...although, Wikipedia states there are 70). We came across a multi-coloured metal one almost straight away. It reminded me of a toilet tent or maybe the tip of a nuclear missile. I'm not sure what the artist intended, although it might have been just to fire one's imagination. I couldn't find a door in the structure (definitely not a toilet tent) and there was definitely nobody inside (I knocked on the structure and asked).
We made our way up towards Carron Crag along forestry roads and footpaths. These were well signed and were true to the OS map making navigation surprisingly easy. I came across a small painted stone on a bench near the footpath (RIP Lily 4.12.10-14.6.22). The yellow ribbon on the stone represented suicide prevention awareness, particularly for young people. Obviously a sad story behind it.
The sun was out now and the day was warming up. We soon reached the top of Carron Crag, the second highest point in Grizedale Forest (the highest is Top O'Selside, that we visited later on in the day). It is an easy scramble up to the trig point. The trees had been cleared around the area to a degree and so we did get a somewhat restricted view. To the north we could see the open fells of Bethecar Moor. That was where we were heading, but there were a lot of trees between us and the fell, and so we headed back down into the forest.
Toilet Tent Or Nuclear Missile?
Carron Crag
Panoptican Sculpture Near Carron Crag
Panopticons And Going Off-Grid
Almost immediately we came across another sculpture that looked like a large wooden ring. Apparently this represents a Panopticon. It is worth reading the informative Wikipedia page about Panopticons. It's origins date back to a circular prison design where a single prison guard at its centre can watch all the prison cells around the circumference, assuming that the guard has 360 degree vision. The word though has morphed into a metaphor about other concepts such as totalitarian states and organisations where there is central control. For example, where employers monitor their employees to track that they are dealing with customers rather than surfing the internet. I have to admit that I was oblivious to all this knowledge until I later researched it. At the time I just thought it was a wooden ring for a giant.
Quite a bit more woodland walking brought us to more open areas and the open fells became visible ahead of us. At last we reached the edge of the forest and only fell stretched before us. We headed off on a track to the ruins of a farm at High Parkamoor. A little further on, and a little lower down, is a building at Low Parkamoor. At first we thought this was derelict, but it was only when we did a short out-and-back up to it that we realised that there were curtains in the windows. Later researched revealed it to be a Grade II listed building and owned by the National Trust. They rent it out as an off-grid holiday let. Since it is off grid, you would have to get used to, limited electricity, a composting toilet and an indoor water hand pump. The biggest deterrent is probably actually getting up here. You can get the local farmer to drop you off, but its a rickety old road with a steep drop. A few years ago I was up here and I'd watched a young couple in a 4x4 drive along the track. The fellow had obviously been trying to impress his girlfriend with his off-road driving skills, but judging by her face, she hadn't been that impressed.
Fancy Going Off-Grid At Low Parkamoor?
Bethecar Moor
We followed the track as it contoured along the hillside. There were tremendous views over to the Coniston Fells and down on to the lake. It was a shame when we had to leave the track and head upwards to the Top O'Selside, the highest point in the Grizedale Forest area. The morning mist had now dissipated and we were left with fluffy clouds drifting above the Coniston Fells. A track took us to Arnsbarrow Tarn and this slingshot us southwards to Arnsbarrow Hill where we settled down for lunch. The fells are quite desolate around here. There are few tracks and no particular hill or crag seems to dominate the area.
After lunch the Kapitan took a bearing and identified 'Hill 271.' I called it 'Hill 271' since the OS map said it was 271 metres high. There was a map label 'Bethecar Moor' near to it, but I think that was a reference to the general area. Anyway we meandered our way over there through trackless bog and heather. There was a cairn on the top of 'Hill 271' and from there we could see the small valley that would lead us to a track back into the forest south of Penny Bank. I did stumble across a deer the last time I was here, but today we only saw cattle munching their way across Old Parrock Hill.
Top O'Selside.
Coniston Fells And Lake
Back To Grizedale Forest
Return To Grizedale Forest
A plantation gate allowed us access back into Grizedale Forest and we followed a footpath down into the trees and on to a forestry road. It was then just a navigation exercise of following the maze of forestry roads back to Grizedale Lodge. Apart from two walkers and the odd mountain biker we'd not seen anybody else out today. On a previous occasion we'd had watched a mountain biker race downhill, along the forestry track to the Visitor Centre, towing a trailer with a young child inside. The kid looked terrified, clinging to the sides of the trailer as he was jostled about. The parent was oblivious to the terror he was causing. I thought that I might tempt the Kapitan and the Cabin Boy into a mountain bike ride. Later research showed that you can hire electric bikes from near the Visitor Centre, but at £50 for 3 hours (going up to £100 for a full suspension variety), I think myself, the Kapitan and the Cabin Boy will continue to walk rather than cycle. The hills were grey and misty when we started but it was all sunshine now.
The walk was a great combination of forest and fell walking. I'd also learnt about Panopticons and that was something I'd never expected to get out of the day.
Looking From 'Hill 271' To Arnsbarrow Hill