River Wharfe

Today's walk would start by following the bankside of the  River Wharfe, downstream to Stangs Lane. I'd then carry out some field hopping to the interestingly named Trollers Gill. I'd then  return to Burnsall following a country lane over Appletreewick Pasture.

The path alongside the River Wharfe is part of the Dales Way. I'd walked this path a few year's back and I was glad to walk it again, since it is a wonderful path. There is a great view across the river to the craggy side of Burnsall and Thorpe Fell.  It is possible to get on to the moor from the Burnsall side and I decided that I'd work out a future route that went up that way, when I got home. At the farm at Woodhouse a Border Collie scooted across to greet me. As with a lot of Collies, it had Heterochromia, a hereditary condition where their eyes are different colours. This one had a bright blue and rusty brown set. It didn't seem to affect him though as the youngster followed me along, dashing around as though he was rounding up sheep. He seemed to be doing such a good job that I had to look around to see if the farmer was instructing him. I couldn't see anyone, and so I guess he was doing it all by himself. It makes you wonder how much control the farmer actually has over his dogs when rounding up sheep.

Just before the river turns south towards Bolton Abbey, it narrows and visibly drops in height, making a dramatic display of fast, white foaming water. I was sad to leave the river after this point,  since it had been a generous walking companion.

Skyreholme

I was only on Stangs Lane for a minute or two before I followed a fingerpost indicating the way to Skyreholme. Some field hopping above Fir Beck took me to quite a large static caravan site tucked away alongside the beck. It looked like the establishment was owned by Howarth Farm where I counted five cars and four tractors around its buildings; they were obviously not short of transport. Skyreholme turned out to be a few houses along Hazler Lane. The village residents had a marvellous view of the craggy Simon's Seat on the east side of the valley. Further up the lane I came to Middle Skyreholme and sat down on a bench to eat a hot-cross bun. The bench was dedicated to the 'affectionate memory' of Mary Lumb. I puzzled  to whether Mary had the 'affectionate memory' or the sponsor of the plaque.  Rather than continue along Hazel Lane to High Skyreholme, I turned off left on to short lane leading to Parcevall Hall. The hall is the retreat house of the Anglican Diocese of Leeds. I couldn't actually see it from the road, although Googling the place does reveal it to be quite a substantial establishment. It is certainly secreted in a beautiful area of the Dales. I headed off on a track that followed the side of Skyreholme Beck. The beck would lead me up to Trollers Gill.

Trollers Gill

'Trollers' is formed from 'troll' and the corruption of 'ears', meaning arse. So Trollers Gill means 'the troll's arse.' Wikipedia says that 'arse' is commonly used for a buttock-shaped hill. This did seem to make sense as I made my way along the incredibly pretty valley towards the troll's ringpiece. It reminded me a lot of the deep dales that frequent the White Peak with limestone scars revealing themselves on the hillside. The valley eventually culminates in a surprisingly narrow passage. I had intended probing up the gill, but there was plenty of water flowing down it. The rocks looked slippery and an attempt would have guaranteed wet feet. I decided that I would return on a drier day to explore the gill. 

I returned back down the valley a short distance and then followed a grassy path up alongside Middle Hill. I investigated a small cave halfway up the climb and found an even bigger one further up. The latter one had been obviously formed from a lead mining operation that had taken place in the area. The cliff above the entrance looked substantially fragmented and unstable. The path wound its way over to the north side of Middle Hill and I made a short out-and-back to see if I could get a view of Trollers Gill from the top. It was well worth making the diversion since there was an excellent view down into the deep ravine with a backdrop of Simon's Seat beyond. I could see the path down in the bottom of the ravine. There was a wire fence preventing any foolish attempt to descend into the gill from this point. Saplings had also been planted on the steep slopes,  presumably to make the crumbling sides more secure. In a few year's time this dramatic view will probably be obscured forever. I was glad that I'd seen it before it was blocked.

Kail Lane Track

I followed a farm track across Appletreewick Pasture. A strong wind was blowing, but the sun was out and it was a fine day. I was high up now and there were extensive views in all directions. Straight in front of me was the massive lump of Burnsall And Thorpe Fell/Barden Moor. This was definitely sheep country with hundreds scattered across the fields. The farm track turned into a pleasant grassy lane as I descended towards Hartington. A massive manor house came into view and this turned out to be the Youth Hostel, Hartington Hall. It is claimed that Bonnie Prince Charlie stayed here during the Jacobite uprising. It does make you wonder why he was given YHA membership given his subversive record.

At Woodhouse I expected my heterochromatic canine friend to bound up and greet me, but I was sadly disappointed. I'd only seen a group of three walkers during my entire walk and it now felt a bit overcrowded as I started meeting people on my way back along the River Wharfe to Burnsall. Cars had now started roadside parking on the east side of the bridge too; there were only five other cars in the large carpark.

It had been a delightful walk with a nice mixture of riverside walking, pretty valleys and extensive hill top views. It's not everyday you have the opportunity to explore a Troll's arse either.