England - Peak District - Earl Sterndale's Beauty And The Beast

Walk Summary

A walk of two halves. The first half includes one of the best ridge walks (Parkhouse Hill and Chrome Hill) in the Peak District, with the additional dramatic views from Hollins Hill and High Edge. The second half walks alongside and above the massive limestone quarries that dominate the area east of Earl Sterndale. Not exactly beautiful, but impressive all the same.

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Date: 09/08/2023

Length: 8.48 miles

Height Gain: 457 m

Terrain: Grass fields, steep grass/limestone ascent/descent, difficult section on descent of Parkhouse Hill (avoid in wet weather or ice), lightly used roads, stone tracks, trackless fell

Navigation: Map, compass and gps required. The signage is good for most of the way. It is lacking near Hind Low but the route is reasonably obvious.

Start: Earl Sterndale (in front of church)

Route: Earl Sterndale, Parkhouse Hill, Parkhouse Hill Top, Chrome Hill, Booth Farm, Hollins Hill, High Edge, Hind Low, Dow Low, Earl Sterndale, Hitter Hill, Earl Sterndale

Map: OL24 The Peak District - White Peak Area

Weather: Sunny

Walkers: Nun

Captain's Log

Earl Standale

2023 has had a wet July. Today was my first walk for about a month! It looked as though the weather window was going to be short lived though with more rain expected at the weekend. It was time to make the most of the sun and I started my walk in the pretty little village  of Earl Sterndale. There is limited (about 20 cars) road parking in front of the church and I got there early in case other people had the same idea of making the most of the weather. As it turned out, I was the first one there in the morning although the roadside was full when I got back.

I was on an Ethel Bagging Spree today with Parkhouse Hill, Chrome Hill, Hollins Hill and High Edge in my sights. I've also started my Peak District And South Pennines Hills Explorer Venture since my last walk. This includes the 290+ Hewitts, Deweys and Humps....etc , as well as the Ethels in the Region.  Today's walk would therefore include Alderly Cliff (over 300m), Parkhouse Hill North Top (over 300m), Hind Low (over 400m) and Brier Low (over 400m).  I'd also include Upper Edge which has a category of 'Unclassified', but is over 400m

Parkhouse Hill

Parkhouse Hill, Chrome Hill And Parkhouse North Hill Top

North End Of Parkhouse Hill

The Parkhouses

It was rather hot and there was no breeze as I made way from Earl Sterndale towards Parkhouse Hill. The grass was soaked with dew and my boots were soon wet. It wasn't long before I breached the brow of  Hitter Hill and got a tremendous view of the other hills that I'd be tackling today. In the foreground was Parkhouse Hill which looked like a mini Mattahorn. Just beyond it was the  knobbly ridge of Chrome Hill. It all looked rather exciting. I descended down to the road and then started making my way up the steep southern slope of Parkhouse Hill. There isn't much soil clinging to the hill's steep sides and the track was badly worn down to the limestone. Luckily the stone was dry and the traction was good. It would be quite interesting descending down the ridge when the limestone was wet and as slippery as soap. The ridge was surprisingly narrow and there was a decent drop on its east face. It is only 375 metres high though and it wasn't long before I stood on its small summit and admired the view. My next objective was Parkhouse Hill North Top over to the northeast, and it looked like I had to go right back down and then climb up to it. I started the descent down Parkhouse Hill's north ridge. The drop on either side of the track seemed to get steeper until I got to a section that was bare rock. The route would have been treacherous, nay even dangerous, if it had been wet or icy. Parkhouse Hill is definitely a fair weather walk. I carefully made my way across it and then followed the steep track down into the valley. Ten minutes further walking and I stood on the top of Parkhouse Hill North Top. This was my first Peak District And South Pennine Hills Explorer tick (well, above and beyond the Ethels). I patted myself on the back and set off back down towards the foot of Chrome Hill.

Valley Leading To Hollins Hill (Left Side Of Valley)

Chrome Hill And Hollins Hill

Chrome Hill also has a ridge, although the drops aren't quite as severe as Parkhouse Hill. It was still a taxing climb up its south ridge. My legs were already feeling the stress of all the ups and downs and my lack of exercise over the last month. Due to the tracks steepness and the lack of a breeze, I was soon sweating profusely and I welcomed the rest when I reached the top. It was a tremendous view looking back at Parkhouse Hill and its steep slopes. I continued along the ridge and gradually dropped down to the valley. I was relieved that the slope wasn't as difficult as Parkhouse Hill. The valley before me was very pretty and I followed it northwards on a permissive path. The valley ran out and I reached the single track road near Booth Farm. Booth Hill is an 'Unclassified' hill to the west of the farm. The summit is on private land and you have to ask permission from the farmer to ascend it. The hill didn't look very interesting and I didn't really fancy knocking disturbing the farmer. There are 13 'Unclassifieds' in my Hills Explorer list. They are unclassified because they don't appear on any other list or have been removed at some point. If they all looked as insignificant as Booth Hill, I might have to exclude them from my tick list. Much more interesting was the bulk of Hollins Hill to  the southeast of Boot Farm. Thankfully the grass track up to its summit was not as challenging as those of Parkhouse and Chrome Hill. It was another great view from the summit, down into the valley and beyond to the hills I'd already traversed. Looking to the north I could see High Edge, my next Ethel. I descended back down to Booth Farm and started making my way along the road towards it.

Chrome Hill From Hollins Hill

High Edge

Pillbox On High Edge

High Edge And Upper Edge

My heart sank a little when I saw a prairie full of cows in the field leading up to the summit of High Edge. I looked at the map and couldn't see any viable alternative route. There was nothing for it, I had to get in the field and see how friendly they were. Thankfully, they weren't that curious and apart from some hard glares, they left me pretty much alone. It looked initially as though the summit of the hill had been completely fenced off, but near to the steepest part of the edge, the fence had fallen down. I was surprised to find a pillbox on the summit. It certainly had a commanding view of the surrounding area, but it seemed rather a remote location to me. I reintroduced myself to the cows again and wandered along the edge to a second pillbox. Both of the pillboxes weren't shown on the OS map. I waved goodbye to my bovine chums and headed down to the road.

I followed the single track road eastwards. There was no traffic and it was quite pleasant walking.  My next target was Upper Edge (unnamed on the OS map - at SK076684). This was on the 'Unclassified' list too and I was in two minds whether to do it. The summit is on private land, but there was access to the field via a public footpath. There looked to be just one gate between me and the summit. I don't condone trespassing and everybody has to make their own choice.

Hindlow Quarry

Hind Low And Brier Low

Back on the road again and I met my first people of the day. There was no time for a chat since they cycled right by me.  Looking at the OS map, there is a huge white area to the north of the road. It reminded me of the maps used by the 19th century explorers of the North West Passage or the darkest parts of Africa. The white bits on my map were actually indicating the location of the massive limestone quarries and processing plants. It was only when I got to the summit of Hind Low that I got a bird's eye view of this alien landscape. After spending the morning in perfect, tranquil valleys, I was now looking down on a white wilderness full of massive trucks, trains, huge processing plants, loud industrial noises, together with occasional blasts. It wasn't pretty, but the scale of it was quite impressive.  

I dropped down from Hind Low into another field of cows. Fortunately they were to busy eating to be bothered by me. Signage had disappeared on this stretch of the walk, but I found it easy enough to make my way over to the B5053. I crossed it and carried on along the footpath on the other side. If I'd thought the quarries I'd seen from Hind Low were huge, then the quarries on the other side of the B5053 were on a different level. My gaze seemed to be permanently cast down into their abyss with a grim fascination. The summit of Dow Low (Brier Low at  SK093676) was only remarkable in that the arrow straight track I'd been following for ages, shifted direction slightly. The quarries just went on and on, but my track turned away from them and I started a descent down to Earl Sterndale. It wasn't long before the hustle and bustle of the machines and the noise was a distant memory. Maybe I'd only imagined it?

Hindlow Quarry

Aldery Cliff

Aldery Cliff Summit

Aldery Cliff

Back at Earl Sterndale, I continued walking through the other side since I'd decided to do an out-and-back to Alderly Cliff (a 300m + summit). I followed a footpath over to Hitter Hill. This then started dropping down towards Underhill Farm. Alderly Cliff is on private land but it is easily accessible from this footpath by contouring along the hillside, alongside the stone wall. I don't condone trespassing.

Earl Sterndale was busy with walkers when I returned. The Quiet Woman pub seemed ...well, quiet. I read a notice on the window that said it wasn't reopening until further notice. Research on the internet revealed that the Landlord had died in 2021, forcing its closure. 

It had been a stunning day. Four Ethels ticked and a tally of five other hills on my PSP Hills Explorer Venture. It had been a day of two halves with one of the most picturesque Peak District valley walks in the morning and then the airy views of the massive limestone quarries in the afternoon. It really was a tale of Beauty And The Beast.