Hartsop Dodd

Not surprisingly, there weren't any campers at Sykeside campsite, although there was one motor home braving it out. I'd never taken the path up Hartsop Dodd's western flank before, probably because it looked steep and relentless when viewed from the Kirkstone road. Initially it lived up to my analysis, it was steep and relentless, although to be fair, it became much more gradual and easier halfway up. I found it easier than the route up the steep north ridge. There would also been some good views down on to Brothers Water and the Fairfield-Helvellyn range, but the mist had crept in and restricted our view.  At one point a little mouse ran across the track in front of me. Lucky there were no Kestrels about. The track got rather vague nearer the summit (it disappears on the OS map), but the gradients were easing and it would have been difficult to go seriously wrong. Our track delivered us on to the north ridge path, just below the summit. There was no cairn to indicate where the tracks meet, and so maybe we did drift off the track a little bit. We climbed the short distance to the summit.

It was raining hard now, with a strong wind to spice the conditions up. My camera spent about 5 seconds out of the rucksack to get the summit photo and one of the weathered wooden post that Wainwright drew in his pictorial guide. My camera still got a soaking though. We collapsed at the other side of the stone wall that runs over the summit, to get out of the wind and have a break. We were all soaking. I did think about suggesting  that we miss out Stony Cove Pike and drop down the Caudale valley, back to the Kirkstone Road. Stony Cove Pike was the last Far Eastern Wainwright for the Cabin Boy and Under Cabin Boy though, and I'd have hated to see their disappointed little faces, if I'd suggested it. The Under Cabin Boy was navigating today and so I asked him to set a course for Stony Cove Pike. In truth, it's a very easy route, since it is just a matter of following a stone wall between the tops. After our break, we stood up and immediately got battered by the westerly. The Under Cabin Boy led us off along the stone wall towards Stony Cove Pike.

Stony Cove Pike

A curious incident happened as we climbed up towards Stony Cove Pike. We were all in our own little worlds with our hoods, hats and headbands on, when I heard what sounded like screaming. Remarkably it was louder than the wind that was also hitting us. I looked up and saw that the Under Cabin Boy had stopped too, and I wondered whether he'd actually gone crazy and was having a panic attack. It got louder and louder until a skein of geese suddenly emerged out of the mist and flew above our heads. I instinctively ducked (no pun intended), and turned to watch them disappear into the mist above the Cabin Boy. The volume of the screams got lower until they eventually disappeared. I was surprised at how fast they were going, the mist certainly didn't appear to bother them.

A bit further along the ridge, the Cabin Boy took out her hanky and wringed a cup full of water out of it. The Under Cabin Boy did the same with his gloves. I use some goretex mitts in these conditions. Your hands still got wet, but they are warmer than just having gloves. There isn't much traction on them though, when wiping your nose. The Under Cabin Boy declared that we had reached the summit a little bit too early, but I could forgive him for that, since it isn't that clear on the OS map. A few minutes later, all three of us stood around the summit cairn. It was too wet to get my camera out of the rucksack and so the summit photo would have to wait for another day.

Return To Brothers Water

I showed the Under Cabin Boy how we could use the westerly stone wall to take us across Caudale Moor. When the stone wall turned southwards I got him to set a bearing to take us to the cliffs of Caudale Head, and  from there, the ridge descent towards Caudale Quarry. He managed this okay and so I made a note that I might promote him (dependent on good behaviour, of course) to probationary Captain Mo, on our next walk. 

Given the strength of the wind and the driving rain, I had been in two minds as to whether to descend down this ridge. The ridge is wide enough to be safe, and the path is good too, but I didn't want the lighter Cabin Boy being picked up by the wind and dumped over the cliffs into the Caudale valley.  I needn't have worried though, the wind dropped to some extent, the lower we got. It was a shame it was so misty, since I love the view from this ridge down towards Brothers Water.

Once we dropped below the mist we sat down for a soggy lunch break. We could still see waves of rain drifting down the Kirkstone valley. There weren't even any motor homes or campers about when we returned through Sykeside campsite. Just before reaching the carpark, the rain decided to give us one last soaking before we got in the car.

It's a shame conditions were so bad, since the views on this walk are really spectacular. Hartsop Dodd's western flank track is probably my preferred ascent route to the top of the hill. At least the Cabin Boy and Under Cabin Boy (potentially probationary Captain Mo on the next walk), took their Wainwright tally above 200. Job done.