Flat Start

It was a flat, easy start on a grassy path above low cliffs. I’d soon lost all sight of houses and similar to yesterday’s walk, I had that feeling of walking in a remote area. I wondered why people had not built houses along the coast since the views were stunning. Further westwards I could see that the terrain looked much hillier. My flat introduction to today’s walk wouldn’t last long. In fact, it only lasted for about half an hour. After a long straight stretch, I rounded a corner to witness a gobsmacking view of Porth Wen. Across the large bay I could see some derelict buildings and a couple of chimneys positioned beneath the cliffs. I’d later find out that these were the remnants of brickworks that closed in 1924. Clay was excavated from nearby quarries and transported to the site. I later came across some old winding gear on the hillside above the site. It was a stunning location. I’ve never had any great desire to work in a brick factory, but if I did work in one, then I’d have chosen this particular place. I made my way around the bay and up on to the top of the nearby hill that supported a sighting pole for those at sea. There was quite a wind blowing up here. Maybe that fellow I’d met earlier had been up to this summit. 

Roller Coaster Route

The route from here to Cemeas just got better and better. I was now amongst the coastal hills that I’d seen from afar earlier in the walk. There were big drops from the path to the sea. Despite the drops, I did feel quite safe on today’s route. Maybe I would have felt less safe if it had been blowing a Force 10. The path dropped steeply down to a small bay and then started climbing even more steeply up the next hill. This was Dinas Gynfor and the most northerly point in Wales. It also accommodated the largest Iron Age hill fort on Anglesey, although nothing seemed obvious on the ground. If the ascent path to the top was steep, then the descent path on the other side was even steeper. It dropped me down to another cove where I found the remains of another old building and chimney, a 19th century clay works. Somebody had placed a couple of picnic tables near the buildings and so I sat down and took the opportunity to have a sandwich and replenish my energy. It was a good job I did, since the steps up to the top of the next hill seemed even tougher. From that point to Cemaes, the coastal path did maintain height. Sort of. There were still many more exhausting undulations, but not of the same previous magnitude. Further along the coast the massive building of the Wylfa nuclear power station came into view. I’d be walking by that powerhouse in a couple of day’s time. 

Eventually the roller coaster path delivered me to the church of Llanbradrig that seemed precariously perched along the cliff edge. At least the graves were precariously perched, the church having been built a safer distance inland. The church was only 60 feet by 14 feet and so I doubt it will be the venue for any coronations. I followed the road from the church towards Cemaes, but soon turned off on to a path that followed the cliffs around the bay. Even though I was at a lower elevation, the views across the bay were amazing. The coastal path delivered me back into civilisation and a carpark at the end of the town. I started making my way around its bay and small harbour. There were plenty of people pottering about and walking along the beach. I followed the Anglesey Coastal Path through the town and up to the point where it departed into the countryside on the other side. A big red sign said that the footpath was closed. A couple of walkers were reading a notice taped near to the sign and I chatted with them. They said that the notice showed an alternative route and it didn’t diverge far from the official path. I made a mental note about that for when I intended to return on Tuesday. The man said that they’d also walked from Bull Bay to Cemaes yesterday on the same route I’d followed today. He’d read somewhere that the amount of elevation was the equivalent of climbing up 95 staircases. I told him that I was disappointed to hear that because this was my turnaround point and I had to walk back up those 95 staircases to Bull Bay. 

Return

Earlier, when I’d dropped down from the Llanbadrig church towards Cemaes, I’d noticed an alternative Anglesey Coast Path sign that took you along the beach at Porth Padrig. When the tide is in, I think this route would be out of bounds and you’d have to take the road and higher level route as I did earlier in the day. The tide was out now though and so I walked the beach route. There was a bit of sand, but quite a lot of stones and plenty of seaweed too. It was nice to actually walk next to the sea for once. After the beach, the path made its way around to Llanbadrig church. The return trip across the high cliffs was just as exhausting as it had been this morning. Far down below, I could see three kayakers that seemed to be having an easier time of it. After I’d descended down to the old clay works at Porth Llanlleiana I couldn’t face that subsequent steep climb to the top of Dinas Gynfor and so I headed off on a bypass route around its base. It still went about halfway up the hill, but on a much easier gradient. I still had to climb back up the next hill after that one though. My thighs were aching with the effort.      

As I dropped down towards Porth Wen I noticed a few people wandering about the ruined brickworks. I figured that there must be a way down there. I diverted from the Anglesey Coast Path towards some undergrowth and found a path that took me down to the buildings. I was surprised to find a dozen or so people mooching around the derelict site. Some of the kilns were still intact. It was a lovely location to look across the bay. Unfortunately, there were quite a few areas where people had dumped rubbish. They’d obviously come down here for a party and couldn’t be bothered to take their empty cans and bottles away. On the way back up the steep path from the site, I met a couple in their 30s making their way down. ‘Is it a muddy track down there, mate?’ the chap asked me. They were both wearing spotless white trainers. I showed them my boots and gaiters that were clogged with mud. He was still keen to go down and she definitely wasn’t. I left them alone to conclude their discussions.   

It was a relief to get back to the flatter part of the route. It wasn’t quite as spectacular as the hilly sections, but it was a lot easier on the legs. It felt like it had been a tough day in the office as I followed the Anglesey Coast Path markers embedded into the pavement along Bull Bay. For once, I was actually glad to get back to my car.     

The Anglesey Coastal Path from Bull Bay to Cemaes is stunning and should be on everybody’s bucket list. Nothing more needs to be said. .