England - Lake District -  Prettiness Alarm At Alcock Tarn

Walk Summary

Pretty views over to Loughrigg and Grasmere on the path up to Alcock Tarn. Follows the west side of the Fairfield Horseshoe to Fairfield's summit. Dramatic descent to Grisedale Tarn using Fairfield's west ridge track. Pretty views on the Little Tongue descent to Grasmere.

Date: 01/05/2023

Length: 8.46 miles

Height Gain: 823 m

Terrain: Stone tracks, muddy tracks, stone steps,  grass tracks, scree track (Fairfield descent), lightly used roads

Navigation: Map, compass and gps required. High level route. The tracks are well defined.

Start: A591 Grasmere Carpark

Route: A591 Grasmere Carpark, Town End, Alcock Tarn, Lord Crag, Heron Pike, Great Rigg, Fairfield, Grisedale Hause, Little Tongue, Mill Bridge

Map: OL5 North Eastern Lake District, OL7 South Eastern Lake District

Weather: Grey in morning. Sunny and blue skies in afternoon. Misty on Fairfield

Walkers: Nun, Cabin Boy, Kapitan Mo

Captain's Log

Grasmere's Books

 As we walked through Grasmere's centre we stopped at Sam Read's bookshop to see what books were displayed in the window. 'Here, I've found one for you Cabin Boy.' I beckoned her over. The book was In Her Nature by Rachel Hewitt; it had a sub-heading, How Women Break Boundaries In The Great Outdoors. It had an illustration of two women in skirts, roped together and climbing a cliff. 'Do you want it for Christmas?' The Cabin Boy wasn't impressed. 'Most of my life men have told me I can't do things' she complained. I reminded her that I've always encouraged to her to do adventurous edges and scrambles on our walks and it is in fact her own decision not to do them. 'I've found one for you' she retorted: The Feminist Killjoy Handbook. 'How do you work that out? ' I asked. I added 'Which one of us regularly listens to Woman's Hour on Radio 4? I know its not you. I bet you don't even know that baggy clothes and ruffles are in fashion this summer do you?' The Cabin Boy snorted, but didn't respond. We both looked at Kapitan Mo who had his nose pressed against the next window along. We went over to see what the Kapitan had picked out. It turned out to be Where's Brian's Bottom. You'll be glad to know that it's an illustrated children's book and Brian is a sausage dog. Well, at least I know what to buy the Kapitan for Christmas.

Choosing Christmas Presents

Alcock Tarn

Smaller Tarn On The Alcock Tarn Path

Alcock Tarn

It was too early for the Grasmere Gingerbread Shop to be open although there was an enticing treacle smell emanating from the premises. We made out way past the Wordsworth Museum and Dove Cottage. I wondered whether Wordsworth was fond of gingerbread. I can't remember him mentioning it in any of his poems though. The Kapitan was navigating today and his first foray off the road led us in a circle of about 50 metres diameter. It was a curious manoeuvre, but I'd decided to take a backseat and let him learn by his own mistakes today. He eventually found the correct path that would lead us up to Alcock Tarn. There is a small tarn about 10 minutes walk up the path and I've often wondered how many people believe that they've reached Alcock Tarn and then walk back down. 

I wouldn't class Alcock Tarn as pretty. Pleasant, definitely. Pretty, no. The views on the path up to it though, are definitely pretty. There are stunning views across to Loughrigg and down on to Grasmere, with the hills of the Far Easedale valley extending beyond.

View To The Coniston Fells From The Track To Alcock Tarn

Fairfield

Alcock Tarn is the destination for a lot of walkers. Not for us, our next objective was Fairfield. It is possible to take an angled track from Alcock Tarn to Heron Pike's summit. This is mostly trackless and a little steep. I've therefore found it best to take the more gradual and well worn track up to Lord Crag, and then follow the ridge up to Heron Pike. The ridge is on the Fairfield Horseshoe walk and was therefore busy with people. We found some shelter at the top of Blind Cove to have a break. Mist drifted in over the high tops as we drank coffee and chomped on flapjacks. The top of Fairfield was covered in mist when we set off again.

Helm Crag From The Track To Alcock Tarn

It was still misty when we reached Fairfield's top. I've been to the summit dozens of times and I bet on most of those occasions my view has been of mist. People milled about on the summit plateau. We could see seven mountain bikers having a discussion on the north side of the plateau and then they set off to the west. They were obviously going to go down the west ridge path. I'd seen a couple of bikers descend this track on a previous occasion. I was quite amazed; it is difficult enough to walk down due to the steepness and scree, never mind try to cycle down. The Kapitan was setting a bearing to take us down the west ridge. I could have told him to follow the mountain bikers, but as I say, I was taking a backseat today.

On The Ridge Path To Fairfield

Fairfield West Ridge Track To Grisedale Tarn

Mountain Bikers

Four of the mountain bikers came towards us. They'd obviously had a look at Fairfield's west ridge and figured it wasn't for them. We dropped out of the mist to see the other three making their way down the zig-zagging track. I'm still not sure how they do it. I'd be straight over the handle bars if I tried it. They were soon at the bottom of the track and then they set off alongside Grisedale Tarn in the direction of Patterdale. We slid and skidded our way down Fairfield's west ridge. It is actually a footpath rather than a bridleway and so officially the bikers shouldn't use it. I could see some evidence of the tyres damaging the track. To be honest though, the track is more or less scree and easily damaged by the many walkers using it anyway.

End Of The Little Tongue

It was nearly 2pm and we'd still not had lunch. My stomach decided not to take a backseat any more and I made a suggestion to the Kapitan that maybe it was time to stop for lunch. It was too windy at Grisedale Tarn and so he started leading us down into the valley to the south. After another 10 minutes we still hadn't stopped for lunch and I wondered whether he'd forgotten about my request. I was just about to remind him when he stopped and at last we got our break.

Grasmere Sheep

Return To Grasmere

The sun was out now and it had turned into a lovely day. Helm Crag dominated our view at the end of the valley. We diverted right from the main valley path on to a track that took us to our descent route, the Little Tongue. The Little Tongue is next door to the Great Tongue and both are ridges leading down into the valley. This track is less used than the valley path and makes a pleasant change.

Near the bottom of Little Tongue we met a couple in their 50s coming up. The man turned out to be a Tommy Topper saying that he'd done 92 Wainwright and was going to do Seat Sandal and Steel Fell today. That sounded an odd way of doing them since it involved a lot of descent between the two. The strained smile of the wife implied that she was less than enthusiastic about the prospect. I told him about the mountain bikers coming down Fairfield's west ridge. 'Yes, I used to do that sort of thing, but I'm more of an electric biker now' he informed me. We left them to complete their Seat Sandal and Steel Fell combo. My guess would be that they turned around and an hour later he would be propping up the bar at the Traveller's Rest telling anybody who would listen how well he was doing with his Wainwrights.

At our base in Grasmere we had great fun watching a Buzzard being harassed by a murder of crows.  A closer inspection of the Buzzard revealed that one or two of its secondary feathers had gone. It didn't wait to lose any more and flew off closely followed by an escort of crows.

It had been a great walk with great weather in the latter stages. There were some pretty views too, although Alcock Tarn was more pleasant than pretty.

Grasmere Buzzard Chased By Crows