St Mary's Lighthouse

The coastal path follows the sheer cliff edges southwards. I was busting for a pee on this stretch and started to have one in what I thought was a secluded spot. Unfortunately a female jogger appeared out of the low morning sun and I had to zip up fast and pretend that I was taking a photo of the sea. Ho, hum. St Mary's Lighthouse is popular with photographers. Deservedly so. It has a causeway that is covered at high tide. Fortunately, I'd arrived at a suitable time to take a trip across. I've visited the lighthouse many times and occasionally seen one or two Grey Seals on the rocks to the east of the lighthouse. I looked today and was surprised to find lots of them, with some quite close to the lighthouse.

As I was taking photos, a jogger came up to me and we started chatting. He was originally from South Wales but had move up to Monkseaton about 30 years ago. He told me that he swam in the sea around here and often encountered seals. He said that a pod of Dolphins also frequently made their way up and down the coast. During the recent storms a headless, huge whale had washed up on the beach at Whitley Bay. He said that storm Babet had blown the domed top off of the lighthouse on South Tyneside. I would be on the north of the Tyne tomorrow and the lighthouse should be visible from there. I made a note to take a look. I followed the jogger off the causeway and continued my journey down the coast to Whitley Bay. 

Whitley Bay

I'd reached the outer limits of Newcastle's urbanisation at Whitley Bay. The bay has a long stretch of 'sand-castle' sand and is consequently very popular. I made my way along the water's edge trying to avoid the hounds that were chasing after tennis balls. Near to the far end, I headed inland and up on to the promenade. I stopped for a coffee and as I was sat on a picnic bench I was surrounded by Starlings. It was like that Hitchcock movie. Most of them looked quite young and they were surprisingly tame with many coming within arm's distance to me. It was interesting to be able to study them at such close quarters. I noticed that when they trilled (which they did frequently) the neck feathers lifted and expanded, much like a ruffle. They had obviously cased this area for easy pickings. Unfortunately I only had a coffee and so I had to leave them disappointed.

There is a large white, domed building called the Spanish City at the southern end of Whitley Bay. It has recently been renovated and is quite impressive. Fans of Dire Straits will tell you that it is mentioned in their song 'Tunnel Of Love.' 

Cullercoats

The sandy beach is lost after Whitley Bay, leaving rocks. The tide was coming in and the water had reached the sea defences. I walked along the pavement, high above the cliffs. The coastal path briefly diverts away from the coastal road at Marconi Point. This was the site of a radio station built in 1906 which had a 200 foot high wooden mast. This has now gone. It is positioned at the north end of Cullercoats Bay. This is a very pretty bay and feels quite enclosed from the sea. Cullercoats was very popular with artists. Given the landscape, the coastal weather and the seaside tourists, it is easy to see why. I diverted away from the road again to get a better view of the bay from the south. 

The massive St George's Church was now clearly in view. This has an enormous spire and is a tremendous piece of architecture. I started reading a nearby information board about the church and saw that the architect was John Loughborough Pearson. Well, well, well. That was a name I'd come across recently (a couple of months ago) on a walk. I'd come across a church with a similarly impressive spire near Wentworth Woodhouse (see Wentworth Woodhouse Wander) and its architect was also John Loughborough Pearson. The name had only stuck in my memory because of the unusual middle name. It's a small world. 

Long Sands

I dropped down into the next bay, Long Sands. This is the last stretch of sand before Tynemouth. It was very crowded. Some girls were shrieking after having just gone for a swim. Braver than me, on such a nippy November day. Four young girls were playing beach volleyball and were managing quite well given the persistent northerly. My legs became entangled in dogs and tennis balls at one point and I had to stop until order was resumed. At the end of the beach, I climbed back up to the pavement on the coastal road. This was my turnaround point for the day and I started heading back north. 

Return

The pavements were really busy now. The sun had brought out the walkers and cyclists and it was a case of weaving one's way through them along the pavement. Near to the Spanish City I sat in a small metal shelter to have my lunch. An onion bahgee with mango chutney sandwich sounded interesting on the box, but the reality was a lot less inspiring. Some of it ended up on the floor and consequently attracted my Starling friends again. I just hoped it didn't repeat on them as it did with me on the rest of the walk. 

The tide was fully in now and Whitley Bay beach was totally covered. I was relegated to the promenade. The causeway to St Mary's Lighthouse was also covered and I wondered if the seals had given up on their sun bathing. There was just enough sand between dunes and sea on the beach from Seaton Sluice to Blyth for me to walk on. It was particularly heavy progress in the deeper, softer sand. I got caught out by a wave at one point and my right foot got a soaking. 

What a wonderful day. Wildlife, great weather and the familiar haunts of Whitley Bay, Cullercoats and Tynemouth. You couldn't ask for more...and I certainly wouldn't regarding the CoOp's onion bahji and mango chutney sandwiches.