Barclodiad y Gawres

And indeed, it didn't disappoint. Within less than half an hour of walking along the coastline I came across Barclodiad y Gawress, a Neolithic burial chamber. A plaque outside the entrance describes it as follows:

Barclodiad y Gawres Nelothic Chambered Cairn C.2500 BC

The mound covers a cruciform-shaped inner chamber, used for the burial of the dead, and approached by a covered passage. Three of the stones at the junction of the passage and chamber and two at the back of the side chambers, bear original decorations.

Some bars go across the entrance to provide the site protection from idiots. A more modern and imaginative information board describes the site as follows:

Strange abstract patterns of zig-zags and spirals cover the surfaces of the large stones. These have been carefully 'pecked' onto the surface of the boulders using quartz pebbles and hammer stones. The artists who created them clearly knew the rock art in the tombs of the Boyne Valley in Ireland. In the flickering torchlight in the dark interior these patterns dance before your eyes. The narrow entrance passage limited the people who could get into the burial chamber. Perhaps this art was to be seen only by the ancestors? Or perhaps these patterns played a part in trance rituals where  shamans or priests communicated with the ancestors? We may never know, but we can only admire this early artwork.

Porth Trecastell And Motorhomes

'Are you doing the Anglesey Coast Path?' My inquisitor was a bearded fellow sat in a camp chair outside his motorhome while his wife pottered about inside. I gave him my spiel about doing the path in sections. Our conversation diverted to motorhomes and I complimented him on the conversion he'd done. It certainly looked quite cosy inside. He said that this was the second one he'd converted and then listed its features even down to the cassette toilet. I was glad I only got the verbal tour. The couple had no real itinerary but planned to mooch around Anglesey for the rest of the week...'Maybe take a walk along the beach later in the day.' In truth, I think he looked quite content to sit in his chair for the rest of the day. I told them I might see them on my return. I did actually see them later in the day, sauntering down the beach with their Great Shepherd. It seemed they'd not ventured far from their pretty spot at Porth Trecastell.

Circuit Training

A little further along the coast, the Anglesey/Wales Coast Path moved inland for a while. The reason for this was to avoid the Trac Mon motor racing circuit. I'm not sure why it is positioned on such a scenic part of the coast, but I suppose it makes a change from a Club Swinger's course. The circuit was hidden from the users of the footpath that runs alongside, but the squeals of the tyres, the backfiring of the exhausts and the roaring of the engines were still very audible.

After the tranquillity of the walk so far, the motor racing circuit seemed quite surreal. Even more surreal was dropping down into Porth China and seeing St Cwyfan's church on a small island. The tide was out and I walked over rocks and up some steps to the building. The church has been in existence since 1254. Erosion caused some of its graves to fall into the sea and so a substantial sea wall has been built around it now. I walked around to the seaward side of the church and I could just make out Snowdonia on the horizon.  I returned to its rear and sat on a wooden bench and soaked up the sun. I tried to have a mindfulness moment whilst eating a vegan sausage roll, but the noise from the nearby motor racing track kept disturbing me.

Aberffraw

The walk from St Cwyfan to Aberffraw was a delight. The cliffs were high enough to give an elevated view and low enough that they didn't provide any particular danger. More people were out walking now,  Aberffraw being close and a good place to start. A Lobster boat darted from buoy to buoy along the coast. The sun was out, the sea was blue, and if it hadn't been for the cool wind, it could have been the coastline along the Mediterranean.

The footpath turned inland and I followed the Afon Ffraw to the village. I had intended crossing the river and doing a circular walk in the dunes on the opposite side, but my legs voted against the idea. I got Welsh responses to my greetings to people I past in the village. The 2011 census found that 67.5% of its population spoke Welsh which explains the responses somewhat. On the other side of the bridge I found that I could have parked my car for nothing, rather than pay the £6 carpark fee at Tywyn Fferam. Normally such a financial loss would send me into a spiral of despair, but the day had been so enjoyable, I didn't really care. It was time to head back, and so I set off on the return journey.

Return To Tywyn Fferam

The return journey was just as enjoyable as the outward one. The Lobster boat was still out their capturing the unfortunate crustaceans.  At St Cwyfan church a couple of walkers were making their way out to the island. I hoped I'd not left any vegan sausage roll crumbs on the wooden seat. Cars were still driving around in circles at the motor racing circuit. The good weather had brought families out for short strolls or a bit of castle building on the beaches. While sitting for a short break I watched a Pied Wagtail court a female. He bounded up to her in a flurry of wings. There then seemed to be a bit of a fight between them, and he would bound away in a circle of about 2 feet diameter, before trying again. After about half a dozen attempts he must have got bored because he flew off. Back at Tywyn Fferam there didn't seem to be anybody in the sauna trailer. It was hot outside and so maybe people just couldn't be bothered. A hippy looking man sat in a chair in front of a trailer festooned with the usual beach merchandise. Business looked slow.

I loved this walk. The Neolithic burial ground and the pretty St Cwyfan church were totally unexpected and the views were outstanding.