Coledale

We were staying at Braithwaite and so I suggested that given their self-inflicted frail states, we'd do a low level walk to Force Crag's mine at the head of the Coledale valley. Despite Mo's disreputable start to the day, I made him Captain for the walk, since he needed the experience.

We set off on the footpath that follows Coledale Beck. The weather didn't look promising. Crag Hill, at the head of the valley, was topped with mist. Gorse occasionally encroached on to the footpath, forcing us into avoidance tactics. It was a relief when our path reached the Landrover track that would take us to Force Crag Mine. 

Mo had proudly showed me his new Silva map case, last night, and I was surprised it wasn't being used today. In fact, I was even more surprised that he'd got one at all since all his maps were laminated anyway, and so there was no need for one. He said that the reason it wasn't being used was because the Cabin Boy refused to wear it. Given that the Cabin Boy had been demoted from Chief Map Holder on our last walk (see Lingmoor Thrice In A Year), I could see her point. Instead, she just carried the laminated map in a pocket of her rucksack, and Captain Mo simply took it out when he needed it. I have to admit though, his Silva map case was very well made, but will probably never get used.

Force Crag Mine

It was easy walking along the Landrover track and it wasn't long before we reached Force Crag mine. It takes its name from the large crag that dominates the head of the valley. As we stood taking photos of the mine, there was a sulphurous, swampy smell that gradually surrounded us. Rather suspiciously,  Captain Mo walked off towards the mine. 'Has Captain Mo just done an SBD (1) ?' I asked the Cabin Boy. She wrinkled her nose, but was non-committal. I then saw a sign at the edge of the track warning that there should be no lingering in the area due to gas emissions and chemical releases. I wondered how on earth the people who put up the sign would know that Captain Mo would do an SBD at this exact spot. I guess it'll forever remain a mystery.

The mine ceased working in 1991 and had been going for 130 years. Lead, zinc and barytes were its buried treasure. A lot of the mine buildings and apparatus still remain intact, including the large Grizzly Hopper at the top of the site. There are two small reservoirs next to the mine. These serve as a water treatment facility for the water leaving the mine. Reaction in the compost in the reservoirs bind up most of the metals and so prevents the nearby Coledale Beck from being polluted. An information board next to the reservoirs states that in the first 12 months of operation the system prevented half a tonne of zinc entering Coledale Beck. It proudly states that, '...this is the equivalent of 3 car engines!' I thought that the water in the house, that we are staying at in Braithwaite, had a metallic tang to it.

High Moss

By the time we had completed the Force Crag Mine tour, Captain Mo and the Cabin Boy said that their hangovers had almost disappeared. Whatever of their hangovers remained were sweated out on the track up to High Moss, on the other side of the valley. We followed a couple of mountain bikers who struggled to push up their bikes to the top. Their efforts were rewarded though with the long gradual descent down the Stonycroft valley, to the Newlands road. We had a short consultation as to whether we should climb Outerside and follow the ridge to Barrow on our way back to Braithwaite, but we decided to take the easier option and follow the mountain bikers along the Stonycroft valley. Further down, the Newlands valley came into view with Cat Bells and Maiden Moor on the other side. At the top of High Moss I'd reminded Captain Mo, that the troops would need a break for dinner at some point, but he never found a suitable place to stop, and by the time we reached the Newlands Road, I felt like we were running on empty.

The Fern Lady

We followed the road towards Braithwaite and then headed off on a footpath towards Braithwaite Lodge. We'd only gone a short distance along the path when a head popped up out of the ferns above us, and shouted, 'Hello again!' The woman accompanied the greeting with a wave. I have to say, that I can never remember seeing this woman in my life before. Captain Mo looked befuddled at the encounter, and the Cabin Boy looked a little frightened. 'Where did you see us?' I asked. 'Up on the mine track road.' she answered. I remembered that a couple had passed us on that track, but this woman was definitely not one of them. 'Oh yes. Nice to meet you again!' I lied. She seemed happy with that response and then proceeded to wade through the ferns towards the road.

My stomach severely rumbled when we got back to the house, and I mentioned to Captain Mo that we'd not had a lunch stop. 'Why not have it at the patio table?' the Cabin Boy suggested, and so we sat down outside the house and ate our sandwiches and drank our coffee, having carried them all the way around the Coledale valley.

Captain Mo and the Cabin Boy said that their hangovers had completely gone now. I suggested that they might want to take it a bit easier on the booze tonight since we'd be doing a longer walk tomorrow. They were too busy discussing what beer and wine they were going to have tonight, to hear me though.