Mud, Mud, Inglorious Mud

The path from Church Bay started high on the cliffs. There were impressive views along the coast in both directions. It was quite a drop down on to the rocky shore. The path was squeezed between the fences for houses or fields and gorse on the cliff side. I figured this might be a feature of the day. I wasn't wrong. I'd not gone far out of Church Bay when the mud started. This was thick, slippery, deep mud. I hate these types of paths. Slipping and sliding along and always fearing that you are going to tumble into the barbed wire of the fence or the death by at thousand needles in a gorse bush. I'd only slid about half a mile and I'd already lost patience. At Trwyn Gwter-fudr, the fields receded and the open access area felt like I'd been freed from a narrow, muddy prison. This is what coastal walking should be about...not walking on a 3 foot wide muddy path. 

Further along the coast I could see what looked like the remains of the hull of a large trawler actually above the cliffs. It looked as if a massive wave had swept it up there and left it. The path diverted me from the coast and on to single track road. I walked by a place that looked like a junk yard. It seemed like the old trawler was just one item of junk there. An old motorbike had been placed on the gatepost leading into the area. I have to say that it is the most scenic junkyard I've ever seen with its marvellous view over the sea to Holyhead mountain. 

More Mud

On the stony beach at Porth Trefadog I chatted with an elderly man who was struggling across the stones. 'The coastal path goes up by that white house on the hill there' and he pointed to the building on the skyline. 'The electricity board was up there with diggers last week and they've made a right mess of the track. It's thick mud now.' I showed him my mud coated gaiters and told him that after this morning's walk, mud held no fear for me. When I reached the lane where the contractors had been I nearly laughed out loud at the relatively dry conditions. I felt like running back to the old man, grabbing him by the lapels and telling him that he should walk the path nearer to Church Bay and see some real mud. At the bigger bay of PorthTywyn-mawr I stopped for a chat with a woman as her three dogs sniffed around my muddy gaiters. I guessed that some of the mud I'd walked through today would have had some dog urine and faeces in it. The woman actually cheered me up a bit by saying that the path on the north side of Anglesey was the best bit of the coastal walk. Well, that's something to look forward to. 

Caravan City

The coastal path went through a caravan park at Twyn Cliperau. It was mostly static caravans, but it did have a section of the mobile variety. For some reason I always find these parks a bit depressing. I think its the uniformity that unsettles me. The site had a shop and a large play area for the kids. A couple of dogs barked continually in one of the caravans. I think I'd find the place too noisy even in the off-season. I followed the road out of the other end of the site and this continued to the farm buildings at Penrhyn. I walked through the farm yard to the small bay at the other side. I found the blue bench where I'd sat to have my lunch when I'd walked the coast path from Holyhead. This was my turnaround point for the day. 

Muddy Return To Church Bay

It had been a grey day and there didn't seem much prospect of it changing. At least it hadn't rained. The long beach at Porth Tywyn-mawr had been busy with dog walkers this morning, but was now strangely deserted on my return. Maybe it was because it was now high tide and this had compressed the walking area. I'd come across a couple of signs that had given a warning about walking on the beach on this part of the coast. It said that the ferries leaving Holyhead can sometimes create an unusually large wave that may crash into the beach. Holyhead was at least a couple of miles from here. I'd seen a ferry come in and one go out, but hadn't seen any tsunamis. 

I retraced my route along those muddy paths. I thing part of the problem is the run-off from the fields; it just collects on the path. By the time I approached Church Bay I was feeling quite despondent. There is only so much mud a person can take in one day. I looked at my watch and saw that my walk had taken 3 hours 56 minutes. I could have bought a 4 hour parking ticket and saved myself £4. I felt so sick, I had to sit down on a bench to recuperate. 

Church Bay

It was a lot busier at Church Bay than this morning. I watched a couple set off with their two dogs on the northward bound section of the coastal path. They had boots so clean I could see my reflection in them. They had the bottoms of their trousers tucked into their socks. I wondered whether I should tell them about the mudfest on the coastal path. I should have done. Instead, I followed the potterers down the steep track into the bay. It must have been pretty much high tide since it had flooded the area between the road and the shore. In fact there was hardly any shore left below the towering cliffs. I scanned the shore to see if anybody had been cut off by the tide, but it looked all clear. People congregated at the water's edge as though expecting it to suddenly retreat for them. I couldn't be bothered to wait and so made my way back up the road to the village. 

Church Bay Extension

My mood had improved somewhat by the time I got back to the village and so I decided that I'd make the most of my £10 parking fee and do an out-and-back wlak to the north of Church Bay. I caught up the clean-booted couple and their dogs on the cliffs above Church Bay. They were struggling with a 20 metre section of muddy path. The woman was making progress along the path with legs straddled to the very edge of the path. A technique that is intrinsically unstable and impractical for any lengthy period. The man had optimistically headed off up the hillside into the gorse bushes to find a drier alternative route. He couldn't find one of course and made his way back down to the muddy path. He adopted his partner's technique by straddling the path. Their boots were now clumps of mud and already their jeans were splattered to the knees. I'd seen it all before of course and just waded through the mud up to them. It had taken me 10 seconds to walk the distance that had taken them 2 minutes. 'It's a bit muddy today' I said dispassionately as I splashed by them. I could tell by the women's face that a domestic was about to ensue. 

North Of Church Bay

In truth, the path north of Church Bay wasn't that muddy...not in comparison to that to the south. The views along the cliffs were also magnificent. For the first time today, I felt like I was on a great coastal walk. It was a shame it was so grey since it did give the place an austere atmosphere. I'm sure when it is sunny, it would be superb. The cliffs got a little lower but they were still dramatic. I could see a cairn on the top of one of the hills along the coastline and I made that my target. I was making such good progress on the drier surface that it didn't take me long to get there. I did wonder about going further, but I'd felt a couple of spots of rain on my face and so decided to turnaround and head back to Church Bay 

Return To Church Bay 2

I never saw the couple and their two dogs again. That muddy section had obviously put them off. I just hoped they'd not bought a £10 parking ticket with the expectation of a long walk. It got so dark, it felt a little like dusk. A few more spots of rain hit me on my final descent to Church Bay but it didn't amount to anything. I looked at my gaiters and boots when I got back to the car. They will definitely get a wash when I get home. 

Grey days give a gloomy feel to walks and it is sometimes hard to be objective about them. I didn't like the muddy paths, south from Church Bay. There were good views over the sea to Holyhead, though. The coastal path north of Church Bay was far more appealing. The cliffs seemed higher and the land more open. If the rest of Anglesey's north coastline is similar to that, then I'll be in for some good walks in the future.