Dunes

Holy Island is actually on the England Coast Path and so provides another tick on my North England Coast Path Venture. I'd also have to walk across the causeway at some point as part of the Venture, but decided not to do that today, not least because the footpath was underwater, and also that 5 hour carpark return clock was quickly ticking away rather annoyingly in my head. 

I headed north into a landscape of dunes and marram grass. I came  across some derelict limekilns. Lime making used to be a significant industry on Holy Island. Limestone was quarried on the island and then transported to the kilns. A deal was arranged with a business man in Dundee and coal was transported from there to carry out the lime burning and then the lime was taken back on the return journey. 

After a traverse of a couple of mountainous dunes, I eventually reached a flat expanse of sands with the sea beyond. I looked at my watch. 4 hours and 30 minutes left. I could see what looked like the tower of a castle in the dunes over towards the west. I'd not intended to walk that way, but curiosity got the better of me and I decided to wander over to it and investigate. It was great to be walking on a beach again with the relaxing sloshing of the waves in the far distance. It had seemed a long time since my last seaside saunter. The OS map told me that the 'castle-looking' building was on an area of the island called The Snook. It was actually very close the cato useway. When I re-entered the dunes I could see the free carpark next to the road. Well, that's useful knowledge for the next time I visit. 

I wasn't sure whether the 'castle-looking' building was a castle, a church, an un-sailed windmill or a folly. Maybe it was all of them. A name plate said that It was known as Snook Tower. It looked well maintained. A little later on, somebody drove up in a car and went inside. Near to Snook Tower is a house called Snook House. I'd later learn that Snook House is used as the fictional house of Vera Stanhope, the Northumbrian detective to the TV series of the same name. This made me laugh since the few episodes I'd seen, she never seemed to have trouble getting off the island on an emergency callout. I looked at my watch. Crikey, an hour had already passed; I'd have to get a wriggle on. 

Pyramid

I retraced my steps back eastwards along the beach. I kicked myself for not bringing my big lens since there was plenty of birdlife about. At last the sandy beach ran out into rocks and I continued my journey eastwards back on the dunes. A few years back I was walking here and I saw some Grey Seals lounging about on the rocks. I couldn't see any today. Apparently they breed over on the nearby Farne Islands. 

I made my way around to the distinctive white pyramid at Emmanuel Head. It is surprisingly large and is a navigational aid to seafarers. A couple of women with a dog arrived at the feature at the same time, and the hound promptly laid down in a large muddy puddle with quite a look of contentment. I opted for drier ground and sat down on a bench on the eastward side of the pyramid. It was in the shade, but it had a commanding view of the sea. I watched a cargo ship head northwards on the horizon as I munched on my cheese and branston sandwiches. 

Castles, Kilns And Churches

The route southwards towards the castle is known as the Waggonway. Horses were used to haul limestone from the quarry along this route to the large limekilns near the castle. Halfway along the Waggonway, I noticed a bird hide near to an inland lake know as The Lough. The next time I come here, I'll definitely bring my big lens. It was a lot busier now. The south side of the island has the castle and is more attractive to the tourists. I had a look at the limekilns before going to the castle. A notice said that they were the largest and best preserved limekilns on the Northumbrian Coast. I couldn't deny it; they are certainly the best ones I've seen...in fact ever seen, come to think of it. Walking through them was a bit like walking through the cloisters of a monastery. Odd, that such industrial buildings were built so close to the castle. 

I'm not sure what to make of a Lindisfarne Castle. To me it looks like the conning tower of a Vanguard class submarine has surfaced through the landscape, rather than a 16th century castle. It certainly looks more interesting from a distance, than close up. I was willing to be proved wrong though and I dashed up to the entrance with my National Trust membership card clasped in my hand, only to find it shut. I looked at my watch. I only had just over an hour to get back to my car and so maybe it wasn't such a bad thing it was closed. Despite the time pressure I headed across to Gertrude Jeckyll's Garden on the north side of the castle, for a quick peruse. To be honest, a tour of the garden would be better performed in summer than in early November; the features all looked a bit desperate. 

The winter sun was still above the horizon, but the light levels were dimming as I approached the village. The beach had a collection of those curious sheds made out of the upturned hulls of old fishing boats. They reminded me of a description that Ernest Shackleton made of his crew's accommodation on Elephant Island on his fateful journey South. I almost expected him to step out of the door of one of them with a tin mug of steaming seal fat clasped in his winter mitts. I headed off up to a derelict ruin above the tiny harbour. An information board said that the building had been a medieval lookout post, keeping a watch for troublesome Dutch. A more modern lookout tower is open to the pubic further westwards. It provides fine all round views and well worth the small climb up to its top. In particular, there is a good view down into the remains of Lindisfarne Abbey. It is the best view you'll get unless you remortgage your house to pay the English Heritage entrance fee to get a closer look

 My route took me back through the village. It is surprisingly large. I was curious as to where people worked on the island. After tourism, fishing and car park attendants, the options looked pretty limited to me. It would provide a great excuse not to turn up to work on the mainland though...'Sorry boss, can't turn up to work today coz the tides in.'  

I made it back to the carpark with 15 minutes to spare. It was amazing how much I'd packed into that 4 hours 45 minutes and the time flew. This was my second time around Holy Island and I found it just as enjoyable as the first time. The views are spectacular across the bay towards the massive hump of Bamburgh Castle. That's on my tick list for this week too.