High Street

The water was quite high in the Haweswater Reservoir. In 1935 the valley was flooded to create the reservoir and the residents of Mardale Green and Measand had to find new accommodation.  The stone walls leading into Mardale Green could still be seen under the water. When the water is low in the reservoir it is possible to walk around the demolished streets and houses of the village. Haweswater itself did exist before 1935, it was just a smaller lake lower further down the valley.

The day didn't look at all promising. Apart from the misty tops, it was quite muggy and there was no breeze to move the midges along. Our ascent to High Street was via the interesting and picturesque ridge of Riggindale. We took our time on the climb to catch our breath, flap away the midges and admire the spectacular view along Haweswater. The initial part of the climb traverses the side of the hillside and there are surprisingly steep drops back down to the valley bottom. The ridge then straightens up and climbs to Rough Crag, The mist followed us up and eventually the cloud was free of the mountain tops. The Riggindale ridge is broad enough to feel safe, but narrow enough to provide spectacular views into each side of the valley. A short, easy scramble at the end of the ridge brought us up to High Street and to its trig.

Mardale Ill Bell 

Mist drifted back in. We took a short stroll eastwards and, despite the cloud, we were just able to get a ghostly view of Hayeswater. We returned to High Street's trig and continued across its plateau towards Mardale Ill Bell. The path merged with a broad track that led us to Mardale Ill Bell's summit cairn. There were good views over to Yoke, Froswick and the confusingly named, Ill Bell. 

We followed the path down towards Nan Bield Pass, a col between the Kentmere and Haweswater valleys. Small Water looked very pretty below us. On the pass itself there is a huge stone shelter. It doesn't actually seat that many people but it must be very good at blocking strong winds. Calse and Mo sat in it and looked as though they were tiny people sat on a huge stone sofa.

We headed up the other side of the pass to Harter Fell.

Harter Fell And Branstree

Whenever I think of Harter Fell, my first thought is of its summit cairn intertwined with rusting metal poles. They look like large forks.  Just beyond the summit is the location of one of my favourite views in the Lake District. It is a view straight down the length of Haweswater. The drop is near vertical and it feels as though you are almost flying amongst Harter Fell's crags.

The path dropped down to Gatesgarth Pass and after an extremely boggy patch, there is a relentless climb up to Branstree. There are no scenic distractions to make this task easier.  The path climbs besides a fence and so I did a count of the posts for a while to pass the time. As I was doing this I noticed a stone with 'L' marked on it. Apparently this is a boundary stone for the landowner, Lowther. There is a 'H' on the other side; 'H' for Harrison. Well that provided a few seconds of interest. The summit of Branstree contains a stone ring were the trig point once stood. There isn't much else on Branstree and so we headed off towards Selside Pike.

Selside

Between Branstree and Selside Pike there is a large stone pillar. This was a survey point used during the construction of the Haweswater aqueduct. The first part of the aqueduct is a 9 mile tunnel that runs through the hillside to Longsleddale and completed in 1941.

There are other substantial stone pillars on the route over to Selside Pike too. Selside Pike is rather a bleak spot. Apart from a nearby stone shelter there is nothing to mark its summit. We descended on a boggy track to the Old Corpse Road, a path that links the Haweswater and Swindale Valleys. We headed westwards to take us back down into the Haweswater valley.

With Nail And I

With Nail And I is a British film released in 1988. It stars Richard E Grant and Paul McGann. two employed pretentious actors, playing two unemployed pretentious actors who go on 'holiday' to the Lake District. It is a black comedy without really being that funny and so has become a bit of a cult classic. The best bit for me in the film is where Richard E Grant looks out over Haweswater towards Riggindale. The film location must be near to the Old Corpse Road.

On reaching tarmac at the bottom of the Old Corpse Road, a decision has to be made as to whether to walk back to the car park along the road, or to take the permissive path along the reservoir. If tired, the road is probably the best option. The path along the reservoir often has an awkward camber that can be frustrating for tired legs. Either way, there are wonderful views to the head of the valley and across the reservoir to finish the day.

It may take a time to get to the secluded Haweswater Reservoir, but the remote location and spectacular views make the effort worthwhile.