Great How

It was a dismal start as we headed off towards Little Langdale. The day felt like a northern Scandinavian mid-winter dusk. A metal fingerpost indicated 'Coniston - Challenging Option'. We weren't going quite as far as Coniston but it was the direction we wanted and we headed off along the stone track. At least it wasn't raining. Yet. There was a definite damp feel to the air though. Plenty of water was running down the stone track and it felt like we were walking up a stream rather than a footpath. As we breached the top of the pass between Elterwater and Little Langdale, we got our first view of the massive lump of Wetherlam in the Coniston Fells. Mist scraped its summit. At Dale End farm, hens skittered about the farmyard in search of a tasty morsel.

There was plenty of water going under Slater Bridge. Wainwright called this slate packhorse bridge: '...the most picturesque footbridge in Lakeland.' I wouldn't argue with the mighty man. I took the customary photo with the bridge in the foreground and Lingmoor Fell in the background, to add to my growing Slater Bridge collection.

Cathedral Cave

There was a National Trust sign warning of the possible dangers as we entered the old mining area near to Slater Bridge. It is probably not an area I'd wander about at night, especially if I didn't have a torch. Tucked away in the hillside was an entrance to Cathedral Cave. A fairly short tunnel delivered us into the main cavern. I'd used my head torch, but there was just about enough light to see since there is a large hole in the side of the cavern that lets in some daylight. The chamber seems massive and its roof is supported by a huge pillar of rock. It really is quite spectacular. I have to admit feeling a little bit vulnerable when I viewed the huge boulders that had fallen down from the roof or walls at some point. In 2020, during the Covid lockdowns, illegal raves were apparently organised in Cathedral Cave. Given the acoustics of the place, I doubt they'd have needed a powerful sound system. Reports say that they trashed the place, which disappoints but doesn't surprise me.

We had a wander around the quarry area. The Kapitan became convinced that he'd found a hermit in one of the old mines. Somebody was asleep on one of the floors. Given that he was using cardboard as a blanket, I assumed that it was somebody who had the misfortune of being homeless. It  looked damp and dark accommodation.

Return

The rain started as we left the quarry area. Slowly at first, and graddually whipped itself up into Lakeland driving rain. The water was so deep at the ford over the River Brathay, that you'd probably have needed a ferry to take a vehicle across. We used the footbridge and headed up the road into Little Langdale. I had planned to take the cross-country route, from Wilson's Place back to Elterwater, but the rain was a downpour now and I didn't fancy traipsing through mud. I opted to return on the bridleway that we'd used on the outward stretch this morning. We found the path to be more of a river than a stream now. Given the poor weather, I was surprised to meet plenty of other walkers making their soggy way from Elterwater to Little Langdale. It's a popular route. My trousers were now completely soaked and the carpark at Elterwater couldn't come soon enough. When we arrived I noticed that the area had lost its smell of shite. Maybe it had been the Cabin Boy this morning after all...

The walk between Elterwater and Little Langdale provides a great short walk, with good views of Wetherlam, Swirl How and Lingmoor Fell. Cathedral Cave is a hidden (literally) gem. Visit and prepare to be astounded.