Mist

I was heading directly into the sun and it made me squint. After ten minutes walking along the cliffs, I saw a grey bank of cloud approaching from the east. In a few moments the sun had completely disappeared, and I was enveloped in a grey mist. Astonishing how I'd gone from a sunny day with blue skies, to a cold, grey mist in a matter of minutes. The mist was light enough for me to see the sea in the coves, when I looked down from the cliffs. In some ways the mist made the jagged edges of the cliffs and rocks even more fearsome and impressive. I hoped that the mist would burn off before I returned in the afternoon so I'd get clearer views. Even so, I still took some photos, just in case it didn't. 

The mist did give me time to reflect on the Welsh Coast path itself. I've found it well signed and the paths have been well maintained. Although the paths follow the edge of the top of the cliffs, I've always felt safe. There has usually been some undergrowth growing between the path and the cliff edge to give a sense of security. The paths have also been close enough to the cliff edge to provide good views. It has made it a very enjoyable experience. 

Solva

By the time I was approaching Solva the mist was clearing and the sun had magically reappeared. I could even see some little islands offshore. High on the cliffs, I turned into the Solva cove and was met with a wonderful sight. A narrow bay stretched inland to a harbour, with houses stacked on to the hillside. A small fishing boat was making its way into the bay. It was incredibly pretty. The coastal path made its way down from the top of the cliffs and I ended up at the harbour. Yachts were stacked up on the harbour's side. On the other side of the bay I recognised the familiar stone structures of old limekilns. I followed the coastal path up through a wooded area on the other side of the bay. Eventually I reached a superb viewpoint high above the bay. I decided it would be a great spot to have lunch.  The OS map said my location was just above St Elvis Rock!

While I was munching away on my cheese sandwich, 4 kayakers paddled out from the bay and ended up just below me. As large waves came into the bay, they'd take a free ride along its crest. This was quite close to the rocks off the cliff and didn't look particularly safe. I could hear their shouts and they seemed to be having great fun though. Eventually, the large waves stopped and they paddled out of my sight. 

Return

It was getting quite warm as I started making my return to St Davids. It felt more like a summer's day than the first week of February. The tide was going out and Solva's bay was now clear of water. I was surprised at how fast this had happened, since it was full when I'd been at the harbour, an hour earlier. Dozens of seagulls were having a feeding frenzy on the newly revealed mud. Suddenly, they all took flight in a melee of feathers and squawks. The cause was somebody walking an unleashed dog on the other side of the bay.

As I hoped, the mist had gone and I got some dramatic photos of the cliffs on the way back to St Davids. At one point a Red Kite started circling above the cliffs in front of me. I stood still, watched it approach, and had an excellent view of it as it soared just above me. The sun really brought out the patterns and colours of its feathers.

This was my third walk along the Pembrokshire coast and I must say I'm mightily impressed with the area. The coastal path between St Davids and Solva is exceptional; although I had similar thoughts a about the two other walks.