Walk Summary
Steep climbs on to a trio of western Lakeland fells: Middle Fell, Seatallan and Haycock. Best view of Illgill Head, from Middle Fell. Look across the Irish Sea to the Isle Of Man. Peek across Haycock to the Ennerdale Valley. Follow Nether Beck down a picturesque valley to Wast Water.
Date: 19/12/2021
Length: 9.37 miles
Height Gain: 996 m
Terrain: Pathless fell, steep fell, boggy paths, grass paths, stony paths, slippery stones, lightly used roads
Navigation: High fells, map and compass required
Start: Offroad parking at road junction besides Wast Water
Route: Wast Water, Greendale, Middle Fell, Seatallan, Haycock, Nether Beck, Wast Water-Wasdale road
Map: OL7 The English Lakes South Eastern Area
Weather: Sun, blue skies, cloud inversion
Walkers: Nun
Gallery
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Middle Fell View Of Wasdale Valley
Captain's Log
Cold Start
It was nearly a disasterous start to the walk; I was just about to set off and realised I'd not put my lunch box in my rucksack. It was going to be a fairly long walk and I couldn't complete it on empty. The only other time I can remember forgetting my lunch was on the Fairfield Horseshoe in the Lake District. I took out my lunch box only to find I'd packed the cheese box out of the fridge instead. Fortunately there was a good selection of cheeses, but it would have been far better had I had some crackers.
Yesterday's cloud inversion was still in effect and it wasn't possible to see Wast Water even though it was only about 30 metres away. It was freezing too and I was glad of the steep climb up Middle Fell to warm myself up. As soon as I was up above the mist the blue sky and sun appeared and the temperature increased. So much so, that my gloves, hat and jacket came off.
The view from the top of Middle Fell was superb with the whole of the Wasdale Valley illuminated in a golden glow from the rising sun. The day's next objective, Seatallan, was just across the valley.
Seatallan
I dropped down from Middle Fell and started the long, steep plod up Seatallan. There is nothing inventive about the path up Seatallan. It basically goes straight up the side of it. There are no zig zags to ease the pain. It really is steep too. It is best not to stop and just keep going. This was my fourth time up Seatallan and it has never been an easy fell to climb. Eventually, the near vertical path eased and within moments I found myself on the Seatallan plateau. The trig and shelter are on the western side and so I dragged my tired limbs across to it. Due to the cloud inversion the sea looked like an Antarctic glacier. The hills of the Isle Of Man protruded through the mist as did the chimneys and a crane at Seascale. Far to the southwest I could even see the hills of Wales. Amazing.
On the stone cairn next to the shelter, I noticed a painted stone. It was a tribute to Laura who died in April at only 28 years of age. I wondered if Seatallan was her favourite fell.
As I dropped down from Seatallan on the slightly less steep, northern path, I chatted to a woman who was making her way up. I mentioned that I was on Illgill Head yesterday and she said her husband was there too. I only met three people up there, but having described them, none of them appeared to be her husband.
Seatallan 'Laura' Memorial Stone
Wast Water
Views Over To Isle Of Man.
Haycock's Half Hour
It was really hot now. I was down to a tee shirt. I would have worn shorts, instead of long trousers, if I'd had them. Was it really the 19th of December?
I made my way across the boggy area between Seatallan and Haycock and then started my way up. There is certainly a lot of up and down in this walk; or at least it feels that way. At the col between Haycock and Scoat Fell I could look down into the Ennerdale Valley. I could see the route I did there up Great Bourne and over to Red Pike, last October.
I started the last little bit up to the summit of Haycock. It was a lot longer than I remembered from a previous ascent. It was with some relief that I eventually came to the summit cairn.
With the short winter days, time was pressing. If I didn't want to be returning in the dark, my lunch break had to be more like Haycock's Fifteen Minutes, than Haycock's Half Hour.
Illgill Head
Nether Beck
I'd also forgot how long that valley is from Haycock to Wast Water, following the Nether Beck path. The finger post at the Wast Water end says it is three miles, but it seems longer. It is a difficult path that demands concentration with its boggy and steep sections. Those slippery rocks also demand care. It is a shame that you spend so much time having to look at the path, since the valley itself is very picturesque.
As I approached Wast Water the sun was setting and Yewbarrow, Great Gable and the Scafell's were illuminated in a wonderful golden light.
I did actually get back to my car before the sun fully set. It's a good job I didn't take the full Haycock's Half Hour for my lunch or I would have returned in the dark.
Middle Fell, Seatallan and Haycock is a tough walk, but the views at their summits make it all worthwhile.
Scafell