Walk Summary
Delightful walk from the Robin Hood Inn, over Gibbet Moor to Harland Edge. Returns through the wonderful Chatsworth Estate with visits to the lakes and the Hunting Tower. Options to spend lots of money if you visit the house, garden or attend an 'Event'.
Click on the above map for an interactive map of the route. The Trails Map (dropdown, top right) is the best free map for displaying footpaths and topography. Expand to full screen (cross arrows, top right) to see route detail. Ordnance Survey maps can be used with a small subscription to Plotaroute.
GPX Download - Download a GPX file of the route to your phone or GPS.
Plotaroute Map - Full page interactive map. Additional download options are also available.
Map/Directions PDF - PDF file with a map and directions.
Date: 30/08/2023
Length: 8.126 miles
Height Gain: 247 m
Terrain: Muddy tracks, stone tracks, grassy tracks, Landrover tracks, lightly used roads
Navigation: Map, compass and gps required. The tracks are reasonably well signed.
Start: NT Birchen Edge Carpark
Route: NT Birchen Edge Carpark, Gibbet Moor, Hob Hurst's House, Stand Wood, Swiss Lake (dried up), Emperor Lake, Hunting Tower, Dobb Edge
Map: OL24 Peak District - White Peak Area
Weather: Morning, sunshine and showers; afternoon, sunshine.
Walkers: Nun
Captain's Log
Harland Edge And Lees Moor Reminiscence
Around about a year ago, in the early stages of my Ethel's Venture, I ticked off Harland Edge and Lees Moor. The fly tipping on the Tree Troubler's plantation at Lees Moor, and the awful heathery defences to Harland Edge's summit, made me question whether doing the Ethels was really worth it. Fortunately I continued with the Venture and in all honesty, I never did come across any other Ethels more disagreeable than these two monsters. See the Captain's Log of the Harland And Lees Question for a full assessment of the walk. After the obstacle course of Harland Edge, I'd forced my battered body back down towards the valley , through the grounds of Chatsworth House, and then to the great building itself. The grounds were so impressive that I thought I'd have to return again at some point when my mood was a little lighter and I could give it a fairer assessment. Well twelve months later, I'd planned a route that would start at the Robin Hood's Inn, take me over Gibbet Moor to Harland Edge (I would definitely not be hauling myself to its summit), succeeded by a leisurely return through the grounds of Chatsworth House. During my previous walk I'd not visited any of Chatsworth's lakes and I'd only seen the Hunting Tower from down in the valley. Today, I would be getting up close to them.
Trail Along Fern Strewn Heathy Lea Brook
Watch Your Back On Gibbet Moor
Hob Hurst's House
Gibbet Moor
I picked up a concessionary footpath near to the Birchin Edge carpark. There was a sign saying that the footpath would be closed on the 1st, 2nd and 3rd of September due to an 'Event' at Chatsworth House. It looked like I'd been lucky in timing my walk. Later research revealed that the promoted 'Event' would be the Chatsworth Country Fair. Entertainment on offer would include inspirational cooking masterclasses (I'm personally happy with beans on toast), delicious food (presumably from the masterclasses), shops, a climbing wall and a bungee trampoline. I'd already missed the Super Early Bird and Early Bird ticket prices and so if I attended, I would have to pay the full £30 on the gate price. If I wanted to go on all 3 days, then I'd have to raid my piggy bank and count out 68, £1 coins. Somehow, I don't think I'll be attending.
The track up to Gibbet Moor was overgrown with ferns, and because of the overnight rain, my trousers got the equivalent of a machine car wash. Eventually I escaped the ravine enclosing the track, and made my way up towards the moor. I was glad to leave the thick undergrowth behind and I was thankful that the sun was out so that my trousers would dry. I joined a Landrover track that would lead me southwards over Gibbet Moor. No sooner had I joined the track, then there was a loud rumble behind me and I had to jump off the track to let a large lorry pass. It's always best to keep your wits about you wherever you are. Some grey clouds encroached from the west and within a few minutes I had to put my anorak on because of the rain. The same weather pattern persisted throughout the morning, a cycle of sunshine and showers.
Descending To Stand Wood
Harland Edge
To be honest, I can't remember that much of my walk over Gibbet Moor. The terrain was quite flat and heathery and didn't hold much interest. I was also preoccupied with the rain and trying to keep my camera dry. I soon found myself at Hob Hurst's House, a Bronze Age barrow. It was originally made with 13 stones, but only five remain today. The heather was so thick, it was difficult to even determine these. I looked over to Harland Edge with a feeling of uneasiness. I'd have to go to its summit again at some point since Kapitan Mo and the Cabin Boy still needed to tick it off on their Ethels Venture. I sighed. I couldn't face doing it this year. I'd leave it until next. If I'm lucky the Kapitan and Cabin Boy might even give up on their Ethels Venture before we had to do it.
A sign on a nearby wooden gate said that the forest was Open Access. I looked on my OS map and decided I could take the track through the forest to the Swiss Cottage, which was on my intended route. A 100 yards into the forest and I decided that maybe it wasn't such a good idea. The track was overgrown and already brambles were clawing at my trousers. I'd had an awful experience at Rivelin last week (see the Captain's Log for Rivelin Force Alternatives) and I didn't want a similar one. I retreated gracefully back to the wooden gate. I followed the side of the plantation down to a track that would lead me to the main Chatsworth Estate. The sun was out now and I stopped to take off my anorak. Even as I did so, I could see clouds of rain approaching along the valleys to the west. Well, at least I'd get another 10 minutes of sun.
I could see Lees Moor over the other side of the valley. It seemed such a strange hill to include in the Ethels list. Nearly all of it is covered in a forestry plantation. Even when you did finally reach its flat summit, there was no view as a reward for your efforts. Clouds of rain now obscured it and were making there way towards me. I hoped I'd reached the meagre cover of the canopy of Stand Wood before the deluge.
Crag At The Top Of The Drop To The Cascades
The 'Round' Lake
The Hunting Tower
Chatsworth's Grounds
A lot of Chatsworth's grounds, east of the house, are wooded. There are plenty of roads and trails though and navigation isn't such an issue. From what I've found, the OS map is accurate in depicting the roads. I had to question this accuracy though, when I reached what I thought would be the Swiss Lake. All I could see was a sea of ferns and undergrowth. The Swiss Cottage was clearly visible on the other side of this green sea. It looked like the lake hadn't held water for quite a while. There was plenty of water in the Emperor Lake though. The sun had come out and it was a very pleasant walk along its east bank. A couple of Fallow Deer made their way across the southern end of the lake. Amazingly, they didn't spot me. Well, if they did, then they were happy to ignore me. I walked southwards to an unnamed (at least on the OS map) circular lake. It had a trail around its perimeter and so I took the circular tour. There was a bench halfway around and so I took the opportunity to have my lunch. It was very peaceful with only a few ducks for company.
After lunch, I walked directly westwards from the lake and came to the top of the water feature that descends down to the house. Through a gap in the trees I could see the back of the mansion and then the village of Edensor and the hills beyond. There were also plenty of tents and trucks parked in front of the house. The preparations for the Country Fair looked to be well underway. I followed the stream down to the aqueduct. This projects the water from the stream out into the valley for 40 metres or so, before it cascades down from its end. The stone masonry looks a bit basic and one of the arches of the aqueduct is now supported by scaffolding. At the bottom of the aqueduct I reached a tarmac road and followed this uphill to the Hunting Tower. An information board that I'd seen earlier told me that it had been built in the mid-16th century, '...to provide a view of the hunt, and a place to entertain the family and visiting guests.' Well, I suppose that if you're rolling in money, then you've got to spend it on something. I'm not, and so became slightly nauseous when a Google search revealed that you can actually lodge in the the tower for a hefty, average of £371 per night! There was a car parked outside and so somebody had thought it was value for money. I suppose if they are prepared to pay that money for a night's accommodation then the 3 day £68 ticked for the Chatsworth Country Fair would just be shrapnel to them.
View Westwards (Near To Dobb Edge)
Return
The sun was now a permanent presence. Some Chatsworth Estate workers were strimming ferns near to the path. Given the sheer number of ferns on the estate this seemed like a task designed for Sisyphus. The concessionary footpath followed the contour of the hillside and offered marvellous views over to the west. At one point the track followed the line of a craggy edge with some sheer drops. There were even some chain linked posts on a small section of prevent the walker carrying out an involuntary base jump. The track gradually descended and the rumble of traffic on the A619 became audible. It wasn't long before I was back at the road and walking the 200 yards or so back to the carpark.
Despite the changeable weather in the morning, the day had been excellent. I'd confronted my Harland Edge fears and placed them in a locked room for a future encounter. The Chatsworth Estate is a wonderful place to go for a potter and there is plenty to see. Unless you want to see the gardens or house, or maybe even attend one of its events, it is all as free as the air you breathe.
Airy Views