Captain's Log

Burning Fat

I went for a medical at my General Practice in the first week of January. The experience wasn’t favourable. ‘Mr Warthead. We’ve analysed the results from your tests and I'm sorry to have to inform you that our diagnosis is that you are a fat bastard' said the nurse. For brevity, I’ve summarised what she said, but that gives the general gist. As you’d expect, I was rather taken aback. ‘14 stones 9 pounds doesn’t sound too heavy to me’ I protested. ‘I believe the England rugby union pack's average weight is around 18 stones and so I’m much less than that’ I added. ‘Yes, but I understand that they are all above 4 foot 7 inches in height. Your BMI is through the roof. I’m afraid you are in the obese category’ she responded. I had to concede that she had a point. It was hard to believe that despite all the walking and running that I do, I'd still been labelled obese. It seemed a little unfair. ‘You need to go on a diet and I’ll check you again in 6 months’ she concluded. So, since the start of the new year I’ve been on a diet. I was hoping that today’s 12+ mile walk would burn some of the fat away. 

I planned to start at Fairholmes and walk along the road up the Upper Derwent Valley to Fox’s Piece, and then head off upwards on to the moors to the magical Alport Castles. I’d then follow the broad ridge south eastwards to the Ladybower Viaduct where I’d follow the bank of the Ladybower Reservoir back to my car. My calorie counter reckoned I’d burn just over 1,000 calories. It seemed disappointingly low for such a long distance. It was better than burning none at all though, I guessed.

Tin Town

It didn’t get off to a good start. My normal start point for walks in this area is a free carpark just before Fairholme’s main carpark. I was devastated to find that it had now been turned into a paid carpark. Is everything being monetised in this world now? I drove back towards the Ladybower Viaduct and pulled into the Hurst Clough carpark that looked like it was still free. I chatted to a fellow who was extracting his mountain bike from his car next to mine. ‘Yeah, I suspect it won’t be long before they convert this carpark to a paid one too’ he commented. 

I started walking along the reservoir trail towards Fairholmes. The sun hadn’t risen  yet, but the clouds over Derwent moor were a pretty pink. I reached the carpark where I was originally going to park. The CEO of Severn Trent Water (the company who manages this area) earned £3.2 million in 2023. Not a bad income given that the company experienced a 33% increase in sewage spills in the very same year. It’s good to know that the carpark fees will be contributing to her salary. 

It was all road walking from Fairholmes, but given there was no traffic, it was most pleasant. I was passed now and again by joggers. It has been a while since I’d walked down this road and was surprised to find a new sculpture at the Tin Town location. During the construction of the Derwent and Howden dams (between 1902 and 1916) a village was constructed in the area to support the 900 construction workers. It was known as Tin Town and had a hospital, school, pub, shops, public bath house, railway station and even a police station. It is still possible to see some of the foundations of the buildings and pillars for the railway line. A footpath has now been created along what used to be one of the streets of the village and some information boards give an insight as to what the living conditions were like during that period. It is quite interesting just to wander around and peruse this area. 

After Tin Town I continued along the road and eventually it turned westwards to Fox’s Piece where I left the reservoirs behind and headed up on to the moors. 

Alport Castles

The walk had been flat so far, but soon after entering the Ditch Clough Plantation I started heading uphill. I could feel those calories burning and weight dropping off me with every step. I escaped the trees and got a wonderful view towards Grinah Stones. The sun was fully up now and it had turned out to be a grand day. Halfway up to the top of the moor I heard a roar behind me and I turned around to see a jet flying low down the Upper Derwent Valley. These might not be the highest hills in England, but the jet still looked tiny against them. A strong, cold northerly started battering me as I reached the top of the moor. It is a great way to approach Alport Castles since you get no view of the spectacle at all until the moor suddenly disappears in a cliff revealing  the craggy Tower below. It is thought that this dramatic landscape was formed by the largest landslide in the UK. I walked along the cliff, a good distance from the edge, since the wind was still strong. It has been reported that Peregrine Falcons nest in the crags, but I didn’t see one today, nor have I seen any on previous visits. I’d brought my zoom just in case though. Alport Castles completed, my next objective was to visit the aircraft crash site of Defiant N1766 as part of my Dark Peak Aircraft Crash Sites Venture. I headed off towards Rowlee Pasture.  

Defiant N1766

Defiiant N1766 crashed on Rowlee Pasture on the 13th April 1941. Pilot Flight Lieutenant Paul W Rabone and air gunner Flying Officer John Ritchie were on a night navigation exercise when the Defiant started suffering engine trouble. They bailed out and landed pretty much near to where the plane eventually crashed and they were both unhurt.  I just wished that they could have crashed the plane nearer to the footpath since it was an awkward, trackless walk over tussocky moor to get to the crash coordinates. I had a good scout around the area, but I couldn’t see any wreckage. There were several areas of long grass and so it may have been hidden in one of  those. I gave up looking for it in the end and started heading back to the path again. Unless you specifically want to visit the crash site, then I’d recommend that you stick to the good path to Lockerbrook. 

Return

After the awkward diversion on Rowlee Pasture it was good to get back on the footpath again and I started heading towards the forestry plantations at Hagg Side. The footpaths through the trees had been cordoned off since the Tree Troublers were active in the area. I continued alongside the plantation whilst appreciating the epic view down the Edale Valley to my right. The trees stopped on Bridge-end Pasture revealing stunning views towards Derwent Edge with a blue sky backdrop. It had really turned out to be a perfect day for walking. Approaching Crookhill Farm I came across some Highland Cattle. They were busy scratching their sides with their horns and licking their thick orange hair. They seemed curious when I approached, but very relaxed about it. I descended as I field hopped my way to the Ladybower Viaduct. I’d not seen many people all day, but it seemed crowded now with people following the trail alongside the Ladybower Reservoir. I started making my way northwards back towards Hurst Clough. It didn’t seem to take long to reach it. As I packed up I wondered whether this would be the last time that I’d experience free parking in the Upper Derwent Valley. 

I’ve lost count of the number of times that I’ve done this walk, but I never get bored of it. I had an apple and one cheese sandwich for my lunch. Taking what I plan to have for my tea this evening, I’ll have consumed well over the 1,000 calories that I reckon I’ve burnt off on this walk. Maybe I need to plan some longer walks…or eat less.