Captain's Log

Tom Lee

I'd managed to get my tent packed up before the rain started. That turned out to be a stroke of luck since the drizzle turned into more persistent rain as I approached the village of Burnsall. There was a grey sky above me and the weather prospects didn’t look good. It was such a contrast with the sun and blue skies that had accompanied me yesterday. I crossed Burnsall bridge and continued along the western bank of the River Wharfe. A little further up I came to a dramatic limestone outcrop alongside the river called Loup Scar.  This was the  final resting place of the good Dr Petty and the victim of the murderous Tom Lee. The long story short is:

Tom Lee was an 18th century blacksmith and part time mugger who got shot in the shoulder by a postman, who was delivering wages to the miners at nearby Yarnbury. Dr Petty patched him up, and bound by his Hippocratic oath, he didn't tell the authorities about the incident. Lee got a bit nervous about Dr Petty getting a little unbound by the Hippocratic oath and decided on a more permanent resolution to the problem - he murdered Dr Petty. He got found out in the end of course and he was eventually hanged and his body dangled from chains in Grass Wood, near the location of the murder. Lee was actually grassed on by his apprentice, called Bowness, which is a bit coincidental since the Dales Way finishes at Bowness

After Loup Scar, the Dales Way transferred back to the eastern side using a footpath suspension bridge. Crossing it, reminded me of my past trips to Nepal.

Grassington

Before reaching Grassington I went to have a look at Linton Falls and took some more photos of the cascade to add to my growing Linton Falls collection. I shouldn't have lingered so long since the rain got heavier and heavier as I made my way up Suber Lane into Grassington. I was thankful to reach the Yorkshire Dales National Park shelter and I took refuge in there for 10 minutes.

Grassington was a great place to stop for a rest. It had cafés, shops and pubs. I stopped at a bakery and stocked up. The town had its fair share of tourist gift shops and punters too. It didn't really detract from the town's quaintness though. Not surprisingly, it provides an ideal location setting for the TV series All Creatures Great And Small (the modern version).  

Interestingly, the medieval Grassington was uphill of its modern version. I'm not sure why the town seems to have slipped downhill over the years. Maybe its due to all of the rain. Whatever the reason, the Dales Way headed uphill into the medieval area, as it left the more modern buildings behind. It made a pleasant change to have some lofty views rather than having them restricted in the bottom of a valley. Some of those Yorkshire Dales' epic views started appearing. Once the height was gained, the path levelled out and turned into a lovely grassy trail, almost up to the village of Kettlewell. Those seeing Conistone Pie on their OS map will be disappointed to find that when they arrive, it isn't a bakery at all, but a large limestone outcrop on the top of a hill. It was a great view down the Wharfedale valley from the top of its crust though.

The trail dropped back down into the valley and an obstacle course of fields, gates, walls and stiles delivered me to the village of Kettlewell.

Kettlewell

Kettlewell was yet another charming little Dales village and is at the junction with the Coverdale dale that heads off to the northeast. The name is said to derive from the Anglo Saxon 'Cettal Wella' which means bubbling spring or stream. As with all villages along the Wharfedale valley, they became really established in the 17th and 18th centuries during the lead mining era.

It was lunchtime and I dropped into the Blue Bell Inn. There was only fellow who seemed to be on shift, and I joined a queue to get served. He was trying to serve food as well as drinks from the bar. From overheard conversations I determined that there was an American walking group in the next room. I ordered a sandwich and a beer - £16. Hmmm. The price probably raised my expectations, such that I was rather underwhelmed when it finally arrived.  I suppose I did get a handful of chips with the sandwich. The beer was alright though and I thought I'd treat myself to another one and so I joined the queue again. I paid £6 for the pint and once the beer had settled, it was nearer three quarters, than a full one. £6 for three quarters of a pint! It wasn't even strong beer. I sighed; it seemed shrinkflation had even reached Kettlewell. I thought about taking it back to get it topped up, but a queue had formed yet again and I just couldn't be bothered.

Buckden

The trail from Kettlewell to Buckden followed the west side of the River Wharfe and was quite familiar to me. I think this was the first time that I’d walked it when it was dry. It made for a much pleasanter experience. The American group had set off about 5 minutes after me and sometimes I’d catch their conversations drifting across to me in the breeze. I was feeling fuelled after the 1 and ¾ pints of beer I'd had at the Blue Bell Inn and the miles to Buckden clicked by quickly. It is a stunning valley. I particularly like all the stone barns that seem to be in almost every field. The sky was getting greyer as I reached the bridge leading to Buckden.  I'd find that theThe Dales Way seemed to pass a number of villages but not go through them. Buckden was a case in point. I had to walk a few hundred metres from the trail to get to the village. I camped at the Buckden Camping campsite. This was my first time using the campsite and I thought it was good value. I even got my own picnic table, which is always a blessing. I managed to get my tent pitched, a shower and then some grub prepared, before the rain started. I woke up three or four times in the night and found it still to be raining. I guessed it would be a wet day tomorrow.